My favorite way to experience a city or town is two-fold: ramble through the thick of a morning bustle, and then make my way to its hidden gems. I’ve been doing this for the last two years, and one of my favorite pockets of the world to embark on this journey is across the U.K. and Ireland, where bottomless tea (usually due to rain delays) and banter await at some of the most pristine tennis grounds. It doesn’t matter if it’s to watch the professionals at Centre Court or to rally at a tiny remote club in Western Ireland— the love of tennis thrives across these lands. My biggest takeaway? The local communities savor the grass courts most: after all, it’s the birthplace of lawn tennis. So for those daydreaming of a tennis-centric odyssey, start in Scotland and make your way south then west. And bring a friend to rally with.
Isle of Harris, Scotland
Every great odyssey should begin at the edge of the world. Out here on Scotland’s western Isle of Harris, the Briggs family envisioned their tennis court at the base of Uisgneabhal Mor, still close enough to the seaside to hear the sounds of the waves. Four years later—after much crowdfunding, letter writing, and drilling into the stone—the open-to-anyone turf court was finished. They named it Bunabhainneadar, and it’s arguably the world’s most resilient court, enduring the worst of the lonely North Atlantic winters—but all is restored during the idyllic Scottish summer.
Cromlix, Scotland
Weave your way south (but make a stop for the style scene in Edinburgh) to a hard court painted Wimbledon colors. This court and property are owned by Andy Murray, who grew up nearby in Dunblane. You can also often find one of the foremost coaches in tennis, Judy Murray, Andy’s mom, hosting clinics for local schools on the court. And if you aren’t road-tripping the length of Scotland, the five-star property is easy to get to from Edinburgh or Glasgow. Stay for the extensive afternoon tea selection and local fare at The Glasshouse restaurant.
Ilkley, England
Try to arrive in West Yorkshire at Ilkley Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club in mid-June. True tennis fans will always tell you there is more than just the marquee stops of the professional tours; in fact, many fans will choose second-tier pro events over the Slams any day of the week. Events like the one in Ilkley (population 15,000) are hidden from most of the sports-watching public, and are vastly underappreciated in the tennis world. They are cozy, community-centric tournaments, and you can quickly develop a habit of chatting with fellow tennis fans and finding that shared obsession as a way into new friendships. Also, you can’t leave town without stopping at double-Michelin-star spot Box Tree Restaurant in the 18th-century stone farmhouse.
Queen’s Club, London
It’s worth noting that not all tennis players yearn to play on grass—partly due to all the slipping. Yes, it can be fun, and many people do play barefoot, but some would rather just watch the professionals. And perhaps the most notable and storied grounds on which to witness this surface is at the Queen’s Club. Named after Queen Victoria, the club’s first patron, the 28 courts at the private club in West Kensington are converted to accommodate a 9,000-seat pop-up stadium every year for the men’s professional tournament. The grass here is as finely maintained as the lawns 4 miles (6.4 km) away in Wimbledon. (And while in London, if you’re in need of a new racquet, make sure to stop at the wall of racquets at Wigmore Sports.)
Hurlingham Club, London
The royals tend to flock here for tennis playing or viewing, so the rest of us ought to join when we get the chance. The grass plots at Hurlingham have lined the winding footpaths near the Thames since 1869. The coveted club hosts a professional exhibition tournament, the Armani Classic, during the week preceding Wimbledon. An alternative option is to take a short train ride south from London to Eastbourne for the pro women’s and men’s tournament at the Devonshire Park Lawn Tennis Club.
Wimbledon, London, England
Come to Centre Court on one of the first days of the Grand Slam when the grass is still largely untouched and at its most crisp, and the smells of jasmine and honey infuse the air, and you will find yourself curious about the quiet. The players, however, savor it. It’s part of the tradition at the world’s oldest professional tennis tournament, and what the British fans that come here every year relish. (Although do try and tune in to the entertaining murmurs of English nans between points—they always have sharp commentary, should a player double-fault or make an unforced error. The hardest-earned grass plot in all of tennis sits over at Court 2, my personal favorite court to watch a knock-around at SW19.
Herbert Park, Dublin
Switching from the U.K. to Ireland will take you from one population that thinks they have the oldest tennis clubs in the world to another. Arrive in Dublin and set out for the public courts like those at Herbert Park. Enjoy the brown bread ice cream at Murphy’s after your hit, maybe a pint of Guinness, and then take the train or drive through the verdant countryside toward Cork.
County Cork, Ireland
A community of families keeps and protects these rural grounds at Argideen Vale Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club. On these historic plots, an 83-year-old father plays five sets of tennis on a Saturday with his 81-year-old wife, while their daughter and son-in-law play on the next court over; meanwhile, a married couple has tended to these six pristinely maintained grass courts for 18 years. The most prized event of the season, and the only time most of us can visit, is the West Cork Open held every June.
