The sun setting over Genesis House provided a fitting backdrop for Bach Mai’s expression of optimism. Four days before his runway show, the Texas-born, New York-based designer described his latest collection as a journey towards finding the light and embracing the mantra “what will be, will be.” Mai was the center of attention, having been named as a recipient of the second annual CFDA and Genesis House AAPI Design + Innovation Grant, alongside Olivia Cheng of Dauphinette and Kozaburo Akasaka.
This life-changing program offers a mentorship program that will connect the talented trio with industry leaders. The aim is to guide them in creating collections that celebrate their Asian heritage while incorporating contemporary design and innovation. Among the esteemed mentors are Eva Chen, Alina Cho, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim, Tina Leung, Jodie Chan, Stephanie Horton, Rachel Espersen, and Steven Kolb.
“Being a young designer is not easy, which is why something like this is so incredible,” Mai shared with Vogue. “I’m so happy to be part of this, to have the mentorship and the support. There are so many things that can bog down a young designer—from sales and commerce to PR and marketing—but this helps us remember why we do it. Because we love making clothes!”
Preparing for his runway show on Sunday, Mai expressed that the program has marked a turning point towards a more positive end to 2024. “The last year has been really tough, as my dad passed away. The show is about coming through the darkness and finding the light—and another part of that has been [to do with what’s happening] politically,” Mai said, referring to Kamala Harris, who stands to potentially become the first Asian American and Black female president this November. “When things changed ahead of the election, it was like a ray of light had started shining again, and not all was lost. And in the collection, everything started coming together too.”
The designers also have another reason to smile: an upcoming trip to Korea, a first for both Mai and Cheng. In addition to the $40,000 grant to support their businesses, they will embark on a whirlwind expedition to Seoul next month. Cheng, whose whimsical Dauphinette label was recently seen on Blake Lively during her hair care launch (you might also know them for their headline-making ‘Bag-uette’ handbags, crafted in Japan from hollowed-out and preserved bread rolls), is thrilled to experience the food and fashion of this cultural hub.
The trip will also serve as inspiration for the designers’ collections for the challenge. A winner will be announced next February with a public showcase at Genesis House on 10th Avenue, securing the winning designer an additional $60,000 prize for their label.
Steven Kolb, CEO of the CFDA, expressed the organization’s excitement about the program’s impact. He recently visited last year’s winner, Grace Ling, who will present her collection on the first official day of NYFW shows this Friday. “Because of the grant, Grace was able to move into a brand new studio and use that money to hire a production manager to help her, which has changed her life and her business. That is real impact,” Kolb said with pride.
