Alaïa, a name synonymous with exquisite tailoring and daring silhouettes, returned to the New York fashion scene with a resounding statement. The brand, known for its Parisian roots, staged its Spring/Summer 2025 show at the iconic Guggenheim Museum, marking its second ever New York runway presentation. This historic return was especially significant as the brand’s founder, Azzedine Alaïa, presented his very first collection in the city in 1982, showcasing his talent at Bergdorf Goodman.
The choice of the Guggenheim as the venue for this comeback was not accidental. The museum’s renowned swirling ramp, a spiral of architectural brilliance, served as both a visual spectacle and a subtle nod to the “spoiler” the brand had previously shared on social media – an image from the 1926 film “Anemic Cinema,” which served as a visual inspiration for the collection.
The current creative director, Pieter Mulier, saw the Guggenheim’s spiral as a symbolic representation of the brand’s journey, a “circle complete” bringing Alaïa back to New York after decades. Mulier’s designs, showcased on the runway by top models Kendall Jenner, Vittoria Ceretti, and Anok Yaki, reflected this circular theme. Asymmetrical circles, ruffles, voluminous pants in circular shapes, and strategic cutouts revealing skin were all present, creating a collection that was both a tribute to the past and a bold statement for the future.
The show itself was a captivating spectacle, drawing a star-studded audience including Rihanna, Linda Evangelista, and Lewis Hamilton. The event served as a powerful testament to the enduring legacy of Alaïa, while also showcasing Mulier’s vision for the brand’s future, a future that promises to be both innovative and captivating.
