The air crackled with anticipation as fashion insiders gathered for Alessandro Michele’s debut at Valentino. The most coveted invite of the season, Michele’s show promised something unexpected, a departure from the usual chic salons of the Salomon de Rothschild hôtel particulier, a frequent venue for Valentino shows. Instead, he chose an unconventional location on the outskirts of Paris, calling it the ‘Pavillon des Folies’ – The Crazy Pavilion.
The show took place at the Dojo de Paris arena, a vast, impersonal space within the Judo Institute, seemingly a stark contrast to Valentino’s signature elegance. But Michele, known for his unpredictable flair, transformed this seemingly ordinary space into a hauntingly magical environment. As guests walked down a dark corridor lined with black velvet, they were met with a surreal scene bathed in dim light and ethereal music. Heaps of furniture, statues, and grand pianos were draped in white cloth, creating an atmosphere reminiscent of a forgotten world, echoing the supernatural aura of ‘Stranger Things’ or Miss Havisham’s neglected manor. Was this a metaphor for the past being veiled to usher in a new era? Or perhaps a subtle nod to the ghosts of the past quietly hovering in the shadows?
Celebrities, captivated by the intoxicating atmosphere, poured in. Harry Styles, casually dressed in corduroys and a red jumper, sat between Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, impeccably stylish in a white Valentino redingote, and Måneskin’s Damiano David, sharp in an off-white suit concealing his tattoos. Italian film director Paolo Sorrentino found a spot on a banquette beside Giancarlo Giammetti, the longtime partner of Valentino Garavani. Giammetti was even spotted FaceTiming the show’s finale to Valentino himself, who was likely enjoying the spectacle from his luxurious Roman residence.
As the show commenced, all eyes were glued to the catwalk, the audience’s focus palpable. The music, a remixed version of the madrigal ‘Passacaglia della Vita,’ anonymously composed in 17th-century Italy, enveloped us in a message of joy, beauty, and hope. And then, Alessandro Michele’s extraordinary creativity took center stage, unleashing a torrent of stunning designs that elevated Valentino Garavani’s exquisite legacy to a new level of visionary whimsy. This was a collection that not only celebrated Valentino’s heritage but also boldly heralded a new era for the iconic brand, infused with Michele’s signature blend of artistry and extravagance.
