Reviewing Alessandro Michele’s inaugural Valentino collection in a showroom setting might initially feel underwhelming, lacking the vibrant energy of his runway shows and his captivating storytelling. However, this intimate experience reveals a remarkable silver lining: the opportunity to meticulously examine the exquisite savoir faire woven into each of the 62 women’s and 28 men’s looks. The sheer density of the craftsmanship speaks volumes, a silent narrative unfolding before the eyes.
Michele’s signature style is evident throughout, each garment boasting its own unique voice. Cascades of appliqués, embroideries, passementeries, bows, ruches, and lace trimmings adorn meticulously crafted pieces, echoing a palpable delight in the Valentino archives. The collection subtly yet powerfully showcases a refined evolution from his Gucci days; while his time at Gucci hinted at Garavani’s influence, the resources available at a couture house now allow him to fully realize his creative vision and revel in the possibilities. Even within the ready-to-wear context, the execution is extraordinary; every lavish embroidery is handcrafted by artisans using traditional embroidery hoops – a testament to dedication and skill.
Several recurring themes emerge from the co-ed collection. Daywear draws inspiration from the 1960s, featuring trapeze silhouettes of short shift dresses, sleek skirt suits in a black-and-white optical print dubbed ‘Opti-cool’ (a mesmerizing take on houndstooth), and refined silk shirtdresses adorned with a charming cherry motif, ‘Cherry-fic’. A leopard-printed trench coat, evoking Valentino’s jet-set chic, is playfully juxtaposed with Michele’s signature quirkiness, layered over an ensemble featuring a tiny pug print – ‘Petit Charles,’ a tribute to the founder’s beloved dogs.
Michele reinterprets Valentino’s 1970s bohemian aesthetic, replacing a blasé attitude with a vibrant sense of romance. A striking series of paisley-printed dresses, incorporating the ‘Voyage Imaginaire’ motif, showcases his mastery of juxtaposition. Short, loose caftans with bibs are intricately embroidered with crystals, while tiny glass pearls and mirrors adorn long, ruched skirts cinched with belts embellished with butterflies or bows. Similarly, chiffon wrap skirts are paired with boxy matelassé jackets, delicately trimmed in passementerie. Eveningwear features ethereal tulle gowns, embroidered with a cloud-like lightness and finesse; if Apple Martin, who recently captivated audiences in a custom Valentino gown, were to revisit her debutante ball, she’d find an abundance of enchanting choices.
L’homme Valentino is equally well-served with a sumptuous wardrobe, rooted in sartorial tailoring but infused with imaginative decorative flourishes. Tapestry-jacquard capes trimmed with tassels, romantic 19th-century hussar officer jackets with intricately embroidered cuffs, and red velvet four-pocket field jackets with ruched collars are styled with denim Bermuda shorts or classic trousers. The collection’s wealth of ornamentation is best appreciated by examining the detailed close-ups of the accessories; these highlight how Michele’s tenure at Valentino has only amplified his love for lush embellishments, proving that true authorship transcends any single house, remaining steadfast regardless of location. This, indeed, is the very essence of true creative authority.
