The Amalfi Coast, a stunning stretch of Italian coastline, is steeped in Hollywood history. My guide, Michelangelo, a lifelong resident of Amalfi, regaled me with tales of Greta Garbo and Leopold Stokowski’s secret affair in Ravello, Liza Minnelli and Tennessee Williams’ stays in Positano, and Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton’s romantic escapades. Their ‘favourite’ holiday spot was rumored to be Hotel Santa Caterina in Amalfi, a historic hotel that has been operating for 120 years. In recent times, even Bill Gates and Jeff Bezos have been spotted enjoying the hotel’s luxurious amenities and private yacht tours.
I spent four days and three nights at Hotel Santa Caterina in late October, during the off-season. While the summer months are the peak tourist season, I found that the off-season offered just as much charm, with fewer crowds and equally stunning scenery. The hotel’s beachfront location provided breathtaking views of the Tyrrhenian Sea, and my room featured a spacious balcony, a bathroom larger than my London flat, and a welcoming selection of sweet treats.
Hotel Santa Caterina boasts two restaurants: the beachfront Al Mare and the Michelin-starred Glicine. At Al Mare, I indulged in a delicious spaghetti with lemon cream sauce paired with a local Marisa Cuomo white wine and a decadent tiramisu. Glicine offered an ever-changing tasting menu with dishes like smoked risotto with scampi and lemon, seared veal fillet, and unique desserts like aubergine mousse and lemon sorbet. The emphasis on fresh, seasonal ingredients is evident in every dish.
Beyond the hotel, there are plenty of activities to keep you entertained. The Amalfi Lemon Experience, a family-run business, offers cooking classes where you can learn to prepare traditional dishes like aubergine parmigiana, lemon pasta, and lemon cake. For a unique cultural experience, visit the Museo della Carta, the oldest paper mill in Europe, housed in a 14th-century building.
Of course, no trip to the Amalfi Coast is complete without exploring its breathtaking beaches. Fiordo di Furore, a picturesque beach nestled between two sheer rock faces, is completely free to visit. Spiaggia Libera is another free option, though it can get crowded, so arriving early is recommended.
For those looking to experience the Amalfi Coast without breaking the bank, there are plenty of budget-friendly options available. Luisa Gastronomia Artigianale, a specialty sandwich shop, offers hearty gourmet paninis filled with fresh ingredients, while Cioccolato e Gelato Andrea Pansa serves up delicious lemon sorbets and ice cream made with the owner’s grandmother’s recipe.
The Amalfi Coast offers something for everyone, from luxury hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants to free beaches and traditional trattorias. Embrace the slow pace of life, savor the delicious cuisine, and soak up the stunning scenery. You don’t need to be a celebrity to enjoy the A-lister treatment on this breathtaking Italian coast.
