The world eagerly awaits the premiere of ‘Maria,’ the Pablo Larraín-directed biopic of legendary opera singer Maria Callas, at the Venice Film Festival. This highly anticipated film features Angelina Jolie in the starring role, a choice that has generated significant buzz. Jolie, known for her captivating performances and commitment to her craft, has dedicated herself to embodying the complexities of Callas’s life.
‘I met Pablo many years ago, and told him how much I respected him as a filmmaker and hoped to work with him one day,’ Jolie shared with Vogue, explaining her decision to take on this once-in-a-lifetime role. ‘To be asked to play Maria was an honour and the most challenging role I have ever taken on. Above all, because I do feel so strongly about her as an artist and as a woman that I worried about not doing her justice.’
Jolie’s dedication to the role is evident in her transformative performance. She fully embodies Callas, capturing her striking kohl-rimmed eyes, her voice in its later years, and her tempestuous nature. To achieve this level of authenticity, Jolie immersed herself in an intensive training process. ‘Pablo expected me to work very hard, and he expected me to sing,’ she reveals. ‘I went into classes for six or seven months to learn to really sing, to take Italian classes, to understand and study opera, to immerse [myself in it] completely and do the work. For Maria, there was no other way.’
Beyond her performance, Jolie meticulously captured Callas’s distinctive style, recognizing that fashion was an essential element of the opera singer’s persona. Callas embraced couture, commissioning pieces from renowned designers such as Biki, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent. Her influence on fashion continues to resonate today, as seen in Erdem’s autumn/winter 2024 collection, which drew inspiration from Callas’s 1953 production of Medea.
In collaborating with costume designer Massimo Cantini Parrini, Jolie meticulously crafted the wardrobe for ‘Maria.’ However, the final touch that completed her transformation into Callas came from Cartier. Callas possessed a remarkable collection of jewelry, with pieces from Cartier holding a special place. One standout is a figurative Panthère brooch from 1971, featuring a gold panther with emerald eyes atop a carved white chalcedony gemstone. Jolie wore this iconic piece, currently part of the Cartier Collection, both in the film and at the Venice Film Festival press conference. ‘You can imagine how special it was to wear a piece of jewellery that was hers,’ Jolie shares, expressing her connection to Callas through this tangible link.
The film also features another Cartier piece, a Rose ouvrante 1972 flower brooch. Its special mechanism, allowing the petals to open and close, captivated Jolie. ‘I was also charmed at how it transformed from a closed flower that then blooms,’ she says. ‘I like to think it made her smile. The little secret in the piece.’
Cartier recognizes the significance of Callas’s choice to adorn herself with their pieces. ‘Like so many other important women of the time, Maria Callas chose Cartier for jewellery that reflected her personality,’ says Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s image, style, and heritage director. He eloquently sums up the brand’s appeal, quoting Mexican actor María Félix: ‘Cartier has always been known as the jeweller of the aristocracy of blood, but also of talent.’
The red carpet premiere of ‘Maria’ at the Palazzo del Cinema is expected to be one of the most highly anticipated fashion moments of the Venice Film Festival. Jolie, while honoring Callas’s style, has chosen to create her own unique look. ‘I chose not to copy [Maria’s] looks because they are hers, and her Venice carpets were stunning, so I gave a little nod to her – in a different way,’ she explains. ‘But I made sure to wear something ladylike in her honour.’
Having worked on this project for nearly two years, Jolie’s dedication and passion are evident. Her ultimate hope for the film is simple: ‘I just hope this film helps Maria to be more understood and respected.’ With her transformative performance, Jolie promises to deliver a film that honors the legacy of Maria Callas, captivating audiences and offering a deeper appreciation of the iconic artist.
