Angelina Jolie’s portrayal of legendary opera singer Maria Callas in the film ‘Maria,’ directed by Pablo Larraín, has generated significant buzz at the Venice Film Festival. Before the premiere, Jolie shared with Vogue the profound impact the role had on her, stating: “I first met Pablo years ago and told him how much I respected him as a filmmaker and how I wanted to work with him someday.”
The actress, known for her diverse and powerful performances, approached the role with reverence and humility. “I was honored to be asked to play Maria. I have a strong connection to her as an artist and as a woman. It was the most challenging role I’ve ever taken because I was concerned about doing her justice.”
Those concerns were quickly dispelled. Jolie, already a seasoned actress, delivered a career-defining performance, embodying Callas’ spirit, particularly during her later years in 1970s Paris. The thick eyeliner, the fading voice, the fiery temperament – Jolie flawlessly captured every facet of Callas, bringing the legendary Greek soprano back to life on screen.
This transformation was a testament to her dedication and hard work. “Pablo demanded a total commitment from me, including learning to sing like her. I spent six to seven months taking lessons, immersing myself in real singing, learning Italian, understanding opera. There was no other way to do ‘Maria.'”
While demanding, this process proved to be both stimulating and fulfilling. “I am deeply grateful to Pablo for believing in me.”
Beyond singing, Italian, and opera, fashion played a pivotal role in Callas’ life. Jolie meticulously recreated Callas’ iconic style on screen. For Callas, fashion was more than just clothing; it was a shield against the scrutiny of the world. As a result, she became a client of some of the greatest designers of the time, including Givenchy, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent, continuing to inspire designers today. Erdem, for instance, drew inspiration from the set design of Callas’ 1953 performance of ‘Medea’ at La Scala for his Fall/Winter 2024-25 collection, presenting floral gowns with paint art and playing a rare recording of Callas speaking in Greek.
No embodiment of Callas would be complete without Cartier jewelry. Jolie worked closely with costume designer Massimo Cantini Parrini to create the costumes for ‘Maria,’ but the final touch came from Cartier. Throughout her life, Callas amassed an extensive collection of jewels, but her Cartier pieces held a special place in her heart. One such piece was a brooch created in 1971, featuring a white chalcedony adorned with a gold panther bearing the Maison’s signature emerald eyes. The brooch is now part of the Cartier Collection.
Jolie wore a replica of this piece throughout the film and during the Venice press conference. It complemented the Atelier Jolie black column dress she donned for the occasion. “It goes without saying how special it is to be able to wear her jewelry.”
The film also features the ‘Rose Ouvrante 1972’ floral brooch, set with diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, and rubies, gracing Jolie’s neckline. She also wore the brooch, with its unique mechanism that opens and closes the petals, at the premiere of ‘Maria’ on August 29th. “I was captivated by the design, how it represents a bud opening and a flower blossoming. I like to think that little mechanism brought a smile to Maria’s face.”
For Cartier, this was a return to their roots. “Like many influential women of the era, Maria Callas was drawn to Cartier for the jewelry’s ability to reflect her own personality,” said Pierre Rainero, Director of Image, Style, and Heritage at Cartier. He went on to quote Maria Félix, the Mexican actress, “Since time immemorial, Cartier has been known not only as the jeweler of the nobility but as the jeweler of talent.”
Jolie arrived at the premiere at the Palazzo del Cinema in a Tamara Ralph chiffon gown and fake fur stole. This look, as well as others she wore in Venice, deviated from the expected ‘Maria Callas’ style, which she had deliberately chosen. “I didn’t want to imitate the looks that Maria wore, they belong to her. And the looks I wore on the red carpet in Venice were really beautiful. So I chose to pay tribute to her in a different way.”
She added, “But in homage to her, I made sure to wear something that was a bit more subdued.”
Now that the project, which spanned nearly two years, has finally come to fruition, what are Jolie’s feelings and what message does she hope to convey? “I hope this film will deepen people’s understanding and appreciation for Maria.” Judging by Jolie’s performance, this film will achieve so much more.
