In the whirlwind film ‘Anora,’ director Sean Baker, known for his poignant depictions of American underdogs, explores the American Dream through the lens of Ani (Mikey Madison), a working-class stripper, and Ivan (Mark Eydelshteyn), the son of a Russian oligarch yearning for a life of freedom and excess in the United States. But it’s not just the storyline that captivates; the film’s intricate costume design by Jocelyn Pierce serves as a powerful visual language, weaving a narrative of hope, ambition, and the complexities of cultural clash.
Pierce, who previously collaborated with Baker on ‘The Florida Project’ and ‘Red Rocket,’ sees ‘Anora’ as a tale of two individuals searching for salvation within the American Dream. Ani, through her grit and ambition, seeks to climb out of her working-class roots, while Ivan, escaping the strictures of his Russian upbringing, views America as a hedonistic paradise. Pierce uses clothing to subtly telegraph these desires, highlighting the characters’ aspirations and vulnerabilities.
One of the most striking elements of Pierce’s design is the color palette, dominated by blacks, neutrals, and metallics, punctuated by vibrant pops of red and blue. These contrasting colors become symbolic of the American Dream itself. Ani’s iconic blue Hervé Léger bandage dress, worn during her first visit to Ivan’s lavish compound, embodies aspiration and the ‘dress for the job you want’ mentality. The dress stands out against the cool neutrals of the mansion, evoking the vibrancy and promise of the American Dream.
Pierce’s attention to detail extends beyond color. Western motifs are subtly interwoven into the costumes, paying homage to maverick characters like Diamond, a renegade dancer, who wears Pleasers with Old West pistols for heels. These details serve as a reminder of the American frontier spirit and the enduring allure of self-invention.
The film also explores the tension between Ivan’s Russian roots and his desire for a new life in America. For a New Year’s Eve party, Pierce dresses Eydelshteyn in a gold floral embellished suit from Russian designer Roma Uvarov, but adds a twist with gold spurs on his Chelsea boots. This subtle fusion of Russian and American aesthetics reflects Ivan’s inner conflict, his struggle to reconcile his heritage with his American aspirations.
Pierce’s research for the film extended beyond mood boards, taking her to the streets of Brighton Beach, where the film is set. Immersing herself in the local culture, she observed the real-life characters that inspired her design choices, ensuring authenticity and a sense of lived-in reality.
Baker’s meticulous eye for detail further enhanced the costume’s narrative power. He worked closely with Pierce, collaborating on every aspect of the wardrobe, even pointing out real-life characters on Coney Island Avenue who served as inspiration for the film’s visual storytelling.
While Pierce drew inspiration from high-end brands like Balenciaga, Khaite, Maisie Wilen, and Kid Super, she also sought to showcase smaller, independent brands from New York and Russia, adding a layer of authenticity and cultural specificity. This approach is particularly evident in Ivan’s wardrobe, which reflects his youthful recklessness and insatiable desire for luxury. His wedding outfit, a custom blazer by New York brand BONTHA, styled with basketball shorts, perfectly captures this clash of high-end and street style.
The costumes in ‘Anora’ were not simply aesthetic choices; they became integral to the actors’ performances, allowing them to fully inhabit their characters. Yuriy Borisov, who plays Igor, a gopnik working for Ivan’s father, embraced his character’s costume so fully that he wore it both on and off set, allowing it to become a second skin. Mikey Madison, on the other hand, instinctively knew what Ani would wear and insisted on wearing her own skirt and Pleasers, highlighting the character’s independent spirit.
Perhaps the most symbolic piece of clothing in ‘Anora’ is the Russian sable coat that Ivan buys Ani after their wedding. The coat, a symbol of her newfound status and wealth, represents a shift in her life, her transition from a working-class stripper to the wife of a wealthy Russian heir. It’s a powerful symbol of Ani’s aspirations and the price she may be willing to pay to achieve them.
Through meticulous research, collaboration, and a keen understanding of character, Jocelyn Pierce’s costume design in ‘Anora’ transcends mere aesthetics. It becomes a powerful narrative tool, weaving a complex and compelling story of the American Dream, its allure, and its potential pitfalls, all through the language of fashion.