Ao Yes, a burgeoning force in the Chinese fashion landscape, made a statement at Shanghai Fashion Week with a collection that masterfully blends traditional Chinese aesthetic with modern design sensibilities. Inspired by Chiung Yao’s iconic 1969 novel, ‘Fantasies Behind the Pearly Curtain,’ which revolves around a captivating love triangle, the designers, Austin Wang and Yangson Liu, sought to capture the essence of old-world glamour and Eastern sophistication.
“We were thinking about boudoir,” shared Liu backstage after their show, adding, “Oriental boudoir.” The concept, explained Liu, was to infuse the collection with an aura of sexiness, not through revealing attire but through the power of subtle suggestion. “We wanted to make it sexy and a little…” Liu paused, searching for the perfect word. Timid? Restrained? Coy? The answer lay somewhere in the delicate interplay of transparency and volume.
Ao Yes has swiftly established a distinct identity, reinterpreting traditional Chinese garb with a contemporary and gender-fluid perspective. This season, they added another dimension to their narrative by reinterpreting the prevailing trend of sheerness and transparency through their own unique lens. Several see-through pencil skirts crafted from tinted organza, adorned with scattered florals, were showcased to striking effect layered over long white shirting blouses that artfully concealed just enough of the body. This theme extended to a few sheer knit separates and evolved into peekaboo details, with the backs of blouses left open and secured by a single tie (a touch of Mrs. Prada’s signature style was undeniably present).
Billowing sheer coats and an array of stunning robes, worn off the shoulders, imbued the collection with a captivating sense of buoyancy, underscored by a subtle undercurrent of sensuality. This injection of volume was expertly balanced by a handful of chic sheaths and draped blouses fashioned from light yet structured silks, paying homage to the traditional qipao. Some were cut straight and streamlined, while others embraced a looser silhouette. Delicate folded fabric ornaments, reminiscent of Chinese fans, adorned the garments, a motif that extended to the ruffled panels connecting pant legs and jacket sleeves to bodices.
“We wanted to express the softness of oriental women in modern ways,” stated the designers, aiming to portray a confident yet “introverted” beauty. This moment marks a significant turning point for Chinese designers in Shanghai, with the market, and the culture at large, placing a strong emphasis on tradition and identity. This aligns perfectly with Ao Yes’s unique brand proposition. Their challenge moving forward will be to strike a delicate balance between honoring the past and embracing the future, ensuring their continued success in the evolving world of fashion.
