Ashish Gupta, known for his vibrant and playful designs, unveiled his Fall/Winter 2023 collection, and while the presentation might have fallen short of expectations, the clothes themselves shone brightly. The designer entrusted the art direction to James Theseus Buck and Luke Brooks of Rottingdean Bazaar, along with photographer Annie Collinge, a team known for their Grammy-winning work. However, the shoot lacked the vibrancy and excitement one might expect from such a talented group.
The collection itself, however, is a testament to Ashish’s resilience and artistic vision. After a period of business turmoil following the demise of Matches Fashion, Ashish sought solace and inspiration in his Indian roots. He returned to England with a renewed energy, infused with the spirit of experimentation and lightness. This collection is a reflection of his journey, celebrating the power of audacity and the beauty of imperfection.
Despite the unconventional setting and the lack of a glamorous backdrop, the collection’s core strength shines through. Ashish’s signature wit and skill are evident in the intricate details and innovative techniques employed. The climbing wall look, for instance, was patched with hand-embroidered fabric scraps sourced from his own archive, showcasing a rich history woven into the present. A long organza dress, seemingly photographed on the side of a highway, featured sequin-embroidered flowers that gracefully wilted, creating a poignant visual narrative. The bias cut chiffon T-shirt dress, with its hand-drawn polka dots filled with sequins, was inspired by Ashish’s early days under the tutelage of Professor Louise Wilson, embracing the imperfection of the process and highlighting the analogue reality of handcrafted artistry.
While the presentation may not have fully captured the collection’s essence, Ashish Gupta’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection stands as a testament to his dedication to creativity, his unwavering belief in experimentation, and his unwavering commitment to showcasing the beauty of the imperfections we all carry within us.
