Before Pieter Mulier, Rihanna, and the Guggenheim Museum, there was Azzedine Alaïa, Pat Cleveland, and Bergdorf Goodman. Mulier’s recent presentation of his latest Alaïa collection at the Guggenheim Museum in New York City was a major event, drawing A-list attendees like Rihanna, Linda Evangelista, Liv Tyler, and Naomi Campbell. But the event also served as a reminder of Alaïa’s deep connection to New York, a city that played a pivotal role in shaping his career.
Following the show, Mulier and Alaïa hosted “Alaïa In Warhol’s Eyes” at the Brant Foundation, an exhibition curated by interior designer Martin Brûlé. The exhibition features a collection of rare photographs by Andy Warhol capturing key moments in Alaïa’s New York journey.
One of the most significant images is from a 1982 show at Bergdorf Goodman, a pivotal event in the history of the Alaïa label. While Alaïa had been working as a couturier in Paris since the 1960s, it was in New York that he decided to launch his ready-to-wear line and solidify his position as a major fashion force.
The story goes that Dawn Mello, then-director of Bergdorf Goodman, invited Alaïa to showcase his designs in New York. Thierry Mugler encouraged him to accept the invitation, recognizing the potential of this opportunity. Mello had been impressed by Alaïa’s work, which she had seen in Bill Cunningham’s photographs of fashion editors like Nicole Crassat and Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele. Alaïa often acknowledged Cunningham’s role in helping him gain recognition in the United States.
Mugler assisted Alaïa in casting the models for the show, and in September 1982, Alaïa hosted his first New York fashion show at Bergdorf Goodman. The event was a resounding success, drawing a crowd that included Crassat, Paloma Picasso, and Andy Warhol. Alaïa himself has stated that the volume of orders he received after this show allowed him to expand his ready-to-wear line.
The exhibition also includes images from other notable Alaïa-related events in New York. One is a photograph of Alaïa with Warhol and Iman at a 1986 birthday party. Another is from a “To Care is to Cure” benefit at the Javits Center in 1986, featuring Alaïa, a young Veronica Webb (who would later become a regular on Alaïa’s runways), Keith Haring, Grace Jones, and other prominent figures from the New York scene.
“Alaïa In Warhol’s Eyes” is a poignant reminder of Alaïa’s enduring influence on the fashion world, and a testament to the enduring power of collaboration and creativity. Through Warhol’s lens, we get a glimpse into a pivotal era in fashion history, and the enduring legacy of a true visionary.
