Days before the Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2025 show, a small box arrived in the mail. Inside, nestled in a jewelry box, lay a gold ring engraved with my name in elegant script. The show notes, penned by Artistic Director Demna, arrived shortly before the scheduled start time. They read, “My earliest memories of fashion began with drawing looks on cardboard, cutting them out, and staging ‘fashion shows’ on my grandmother’s kitchen table. 35 years later, this show reconnects me to the beginning of my vision. It’s an homage to fashion through my own unique lens.”
Upon arriving at the Unwieldy, the venue for the past several seasons, a long, narrow table was positioned in the center of the dimly lit space, surrounded by chairs. It was clear that the table would serve as the runway, a likely nod to that “grandmother’s kitchen table” Demna mentioned. Perhaps this was his way of expressing a pure, childlike fascination with fashion.
The first look emerged: a bra and panty set, accessorized with a garter belt. It was a surprisingly sensual move for Demna, who then followed with a dress featuring a dramatically open back and crisscrossing ribbons reminiscent of a corset. A cocoon-shaped jacket paired with ultra-low-rise jeans, a look that seemed to be a chaotic amalgamation of disparate elements, followed. The show concluded with a dress that embodied the classic Balenciaga silhouette, defined by its striking, high stand collar.
With a rapid-fire succession of series, it was difficult to grasp the overall narrative or the connective threads between each look. However, it became evident that Demna wasn’t aiming to tell a singular story this time. Instead, he presented his own interpretation of “fashion through a unique lens.” Take, for instance, the opening lingerie look, which featured a skin-toned bodysuit adorned with intricate embroidery and jacquard, creating an illusion of a trompe l’oeil effect. The same principle applied to the nylon bustier frame wrapped in Spandex, which mirrored the bracelets worn on the models’ arms. These were just a few of the experimental ideas Demna seamlessly incorporated into the collection.
Some pieces, such as the dress and jacket, featured a collar that doubled as a bustier, further showcasing the designer’s innovative approach to garment design. The ring sent as an invitation seemed to symbolize Demna’s deep-rooted connection with fashion. In recent seasons, he’s been reflecting on his origins, engaging with the essence of fashion itself. This collection was a testament to that introspection, a playground of fresh, inventive ideas brought to life, reminiscent of the youthful, unbridled creativity of a child drawing looks on cardboard.
Celebrities were seated throughout the venue, yet their presence remained secondary to the garments themselves. Demna’s focus was unwavering: to captivate the audience with the power of the clothing. This was a fashion show that prioritized the collection over the attendees, reminding us of the core essence of fashion’s true form.
