Ballet’s influence on fashion has always been a graceful waltz, from the cinched silhouettes of postwar couture to the tulle explosion of Molly Goddard. But while previous seasons saw the rise of ‘balletomania,’ a playful embrace of leotards, cardigans, and beribboned pumps, Spring/Summer 2025 marks a shift towards a more nuanced, grittier balletcore. Think less saccharine sweetness, more attitude.
Gone are the days of blindly embracing princessy flats and trophy buys. The new ballet muse is more discerning, deeply informed by the world of professional dance. She knows her prima ballerinas, respects choreographers, and understands the dedication it takes to master the art form. While she wouldn’t be caught dead in a pointelle top, she’s perfectly happy to style out her PE pants with a touch of Edie Sedgwick cool.
This evolution is evident in the latest runway collections. Simone Rocha, known for her exploration of feminine strength, took inspiration from Pina Bausch’s 1980s production ‘Nelken’ (Carnations), showcasing a collection rife with delicate, clove-like flower motifs, and a sense of concealed fragility. Models, clutching coats around rambunctious tulle miniskirts, created an illusion of backstage urgency, as if they were escaping the stage door and into the night.
Meanwhile, Maximilian Davis at Ferragamo embraced the serenity of dance with a twist of London’s club culture. His moodboard featured images of American dancer Katherine Dunham alongside Hans van Manen’s ballet photographs. The result? Flip-flop heels with satin straps snaking up the ankles, a bold statement that’s sure to turn heads.
Jonathan Anderson, ever the conceptualist, presented leather tutu dresses and Alaïa offered technical feats in circularity, both inviting a twirl or two. Vaquera’s satin bubble skirts, barely concealing a leotard, added to the whimsical balletcore energy. This season’s embrace of tulle is not just about delicate femininity, but about embracing the gritty undercurrent of dance.
Think Kate Moss’s effortlessly cool, leggings-adjacent style. Balletcore has a touch of Camden girl attitude this spring. In the end, it’s not just about the pink satin, but about embracing the powerful spirit of ballet. As the professionals say, it’s about attitude.
