Balmain’s Sharp Shoulders and Tromp-l’oeil: A Look at Olivier Rousteing’s Latest Collection

Olivier Rousteing’s latest collection for Balmain is all about the shoulder. The collection features an array of jackets, long and short dresses, all with the signature Balmain slim silhouette and a striking twist: exaggerated, pointed shoulders. But the story doesn’t end there. Many of the skirts and dresses in the collection feature a unique trompe-l’oeil effect, where the hips appear to have miniature shoulder pads, creating an unexpected and intriguing silhouette. This playful design detail extends even to the prints, where faces are either embroidered or subtly embossed into the fabric, adding a distinct dimension to the design. Rousteing masterfully utilizes this trompe-l’oeil concept across a range of fabrics and textures, from tailored pieces in black and red tweed to supple leather and richly embroidered fabrics adorned with chains and pearls. The collection even includes a section dedicated to nude and rose tones, showcasing the delicate beauty of the designs against the backdrop of structured pieces that seem to have been molded and painted directly onto the body. The collection is a testament to Rousteing’s dedication to pushing boundaries and creating captivating, unexpected designs.

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