BALMUNG, a fashion brand that has been observing and reflecting on the ever-changing cultural landscape of Tokyo and the internet since the late 2000s, made its debut at Tokyo Fashion Week with a captivating runway show. The show, titled ‘movement / circle,’ served as a statement of the brand’s unique approach to fashion, showcasing a world where the gritty realities of Tokyo’s streets meet a futuristic edge.
Designer Hachi, who spent their youth in Harajuku during the 2000s, has been deeply influenced by the underground idol scene that flourished in the early 2010s, participating in fashion events at the Akihabara Dia Stage, a live event space where the members of the renowned denpa-gumi.inc. were based. In recent years, BALMUNG has shifted its focus to the evolving culture and mood of young people in Shinjuku, specifically areas like Kabukicho and Shin-Okubo. The brand has further cemented its connection to the artistic landscape of the area through installations at art galleries like WHITEHOUSE and Decameron.
The runway show, held at a circular venue with a towering, two-story steel structure in its center, was a spectacle of movement and visual impact. The program distributed to attendees listed the names and social media accounts of the 29 models who walked the runway, further emphasizing the contemporary and digitally connected nature of the event. As the show began, a hauntingly beautiful track by artist vq filled the space, its ethereal and melancholic soundscapes creating a mood of otherworldly intrigue. The first look, featuring a striking glitch-inspired graphic, was a bold statement of the brand’s artistic vision. Models navigated the circular runway with a captivating fluidity, their movements drawing the audience’s gaze. A particularly memorable moment occurred when models leapt from the second floor onto the cushions below, adding a thrilling element of unpredictability to the show.
BALMUNG, known for its iconic gray high-neck oversized hoodies, continued to explore its signature design codes, incorporating a range of fresh approaches, including graphic prints, vivid colors, camouflage patterns, and bold stripes. This season, the brand embraced its commitment to inclusivity, featuring a diverse cast of models, showcasing the versatility and adaptability of its designs. From cosplayers to DJs, the models brought their unique backgrounds and identities to the runway, reflecting the vibrant tapestry of Tokyo’s youth culture.
Among the standout models was a group of artists who have emerged from Tokyo’s indie electronic music scene and SoundCloud platform in recent years, including Cwondo, iVy, loli主語, MON/KU, towa.., vq, and yanagamiyuki. Their presence on the runway underscored the ‘movement’ and ‘circle’ themes of the show, highlighting the brand’s commitment to showcasing the cutting edge of creativity in the music world.
After the show, Hachi shared their thoughts on the event, emphasizing the importance of spotlighting rising talent in the music scene. “Of course, I listen to new artists on SoundCloud, but it’s not just a personal hobby. I truly believe there’s a clear sign of a (good) future for Tokyo in that space. So, since we were showcasing at Tokyo Fashion Week, I felt a sense of responsibility to focus on that,” Hachi stated.
The diverse casting choices, particularly the emphasis on oversized garments, were intentional, highlighting the brand’s dedication to creating pieces that complement a wide range of body types and identities. “We have a lot of items in extremely large sizes, and I thought that the show would be interesting if we could directly showcase how these garments naturally suit different bodies and different identities,” Hachi explained.
When asked about the timing of this first runway show, Hachi shared their perspective. “For example, the LVMH Prize is for designers under 40, and you’re considered a young designer until about that age. I thought, ‘It’s now or never,’ so I decided to go for it,” they said. “We’ve had pop-ups at Shibuya Parco, and we’ve seen that people are actually buying our clothes, which has given us a wider reach and made us interested in exploring more expansive expressions,” Hachi continued.
After the show concluded, I lingered in the venue to absorb the atmosphere. From afar, I recognized a few familiar faces, friends and artists I had only encountered in clubs. As I mingled with the attendees, I overheard conversations about the show, young voices expressing their admiration and appreciation for BALMUNG’s unique vision. It was a rare glimpse into the vibrant energy and connectedness of Tokyo’s youth community, showcasing the power of fashion to unite and inspire.
BALMUNG, through its first runway show, presented a compelling vision of Tokyo’s evolving cultural landscape, a place where the internet and the streets converge, where music and fashion collide, and where the future of creativity is constantly being defined by a new generation of artists and innovators.
