Apple TV+’s new French-language series, ‘La Maison,’ takes viewers on a compelling journey through the opulent and cutthroat world of high fashion. The series centers on Vincent Ledu, a prominent fashion designer whose life unravels after a racist rant goes viral. While the show delves into the complexities of power, ambition, and the consequences of prejudice, it’s also a visual feast, with every costume and runway collection carefully crafted to mirror the characters’ personalities and the show’s themes.
Behind the scenes, costume designer Carine Sarfati orchestrated a sartorial masterpiece, dressing a cast of captivating characters with an eye for authenticity and a penchant for iconic designers. Sarfati, who has a keen understanding of the fashion industry, ensured that the clothes worn by the characters felt believable and even aspirational.
Dressing the Stars:
Vincent Ledu:
Inspired by minimalist icons like Steve Jobs and Giorgio Armani, Vincent’s wardrobe reflects his refined taste and professional persona. Sarfati opted for a black, minimal silhouette, creating a uniform that symbolized Vincent’s authority and control. While his shoeless appearances in the atelier add a touch of vulnerability, highlighting his inner turmoil. For Vincent’s wardrobe, Sarfati turned to Japanese designers like Yohji Yamamoto, as well as avant-garde labels like Dries Van Noten and Lemaire, blending modern edge with classic elegance.Perle Foster:
Perle, the show’s muse, embodies Parisian chic and carries a strong aura of mystery. Sarfati sought inspiration from iconic muses of the past, such as Farida Khelfa, Azzedine Alaïa’s muse, and even Elsa Peretti, whose relationship with Halston mirrored Perle’s own trajectory. Perle’s wardrobe features sculptural designs from Alaïa, Comme des Garçons, and Junya Watanabe, embodying her sophistication and enigmatic personality. Sarfati’s favorite Perle look is her striking ensemble for the Doppel fashion show, featuring an Alaïa crocodile-embossed trench coat and Dries Van Noten military chinos.Diane Rovel:
A formidable force in the fashion world, Diane exudes power and control. Sarfati’s inspiration for Diane’s wardrobe came from strong women like Liliane Bettencourt and Andrée Putman, both figures who epitomize wealth and influence. Diane’s sharp pantsuits in vibrant colors and extravagant jewelry reflect her dominance and assertiveness. Sarfati looked to designers like Valentino, Jil Sander, Max Mara, and Goossens for Diane’s wardrobe, embracing the power suit as a symbol of feminine strength.Paloma Castel:
Paloma, a rising designer with a conscience, represents a new generation of fashion creatives who value sustainability and ethical practices. Sarfati drew inspiration from young designers like Clara Daguin, Marine Serre, and Kevin Germanier, who challenge traditional fashion norms. Paloma’s wardrobe showcases a blend of vintage designer pieces, like Jean Paul Gaultier and Claude Montana, with upcycled creations that reflect her commitment to responsible fashion. Her favorite Paloma look features a vintage Claude Montana leather blouson paired with a vintage Jean Paul Gaultier mesh top, showcasing Paloma’s unique style and dedication to sustainable fashion.Creating the Runway Collections:
Ledu’s Runway Collection:
Ledu’s runway collection in the first episode is a retrospective of the brand’s history, showcasing a fusion of styles from different eras. The collection pays homage to the house’s savoir-faire, with a focus on exquisite lacework. All of the pieces in the collection were meticulously designed and crafted specifically for La Maison, demonstrating the show’s dedication to creating a believable and immersive fashion experience.Doppel’s Runway Collection:
Paloma’s brand, Doppel, presents a bold statement with a collection composed entirely of upcycled materials. The collection is a powerful commentary on the wasteful nature of the fashion industry and a call for responsible consumption. Sarfati worked with a team of young designers to create a collection that seamlessly blends luxurious fabrics with repurposed materials, challenging the status quo and championing a more sustainable approach to fashion.‘La Maison’ is a show that masterfully intertwines captivating storylines with stunning visuals, proving that even in the high-stakes world of fashion, clothing can be a powerful tool for storytelling and social commentary. The meticulous costume design, with its authentic representation of the industry’s elite and its embrace of sustainable practices, adds another layer of depth and intrigue to the series, making it a must-watch for fashion enthusiasts and viewers alike.
