The Galapagos Islands, a haven for endemic species, have long been on my bucket list. But as a landlubber prone to seasickness, the traditional cruise experience seemed out of reach. Then I discovered Pikaia Lodge, a luxurious haven on Santa Cruz, one of the four inhabited islands in the archipelago. This unique lodge offered the chance to experience the Galapagos in a completely different way – on land.
My journey began with an unexpected encounter. Peeking into a cave-like structure, I spotted a tiny brown barn owl perched on a beam, its eyes squeezed shut. This wasn’t on my itinerary! My guide, Mario, explained that this was a Galapagos barn owl, one of the world’s smallest and endemic to the islands. This was just the beginning of my land-based adventure.
Pikaia, a Relais & Chateaux property, offered a level of luxury and comfort I hadn’t anticipated. The 14 exquisite rooms boasted stunning views of a plant-filled crater, while the award-winning restaurant showcased locally sourced cuisine, a welcome departure from cruise ship buffets. The spa, an oasis of tranquility, offered one of the best treatments I’ve ever experienced.
But Pikaia wasn’t just about pampering. The lodge has its own yacht, ensuring each guest enjoys a luxurious cabin for day trips to other islands. The Galapagos Archipelago boasts 19 islands, each teeming with unique endemic species. With Mario, I explored Bartolomé and North Seymour, snorkeling with sea lions, turtles, rays, and penguins. We observed blue-footed boobies tending to their chicks and frigate birds performing their mating dances. Lava lizards, marine iguanas, and lightfoot crabs were a constant presence, while the majestic giant land tortoises stole the show.
This land-based journey, while arguably more sustainable, also allowed me to connect with the local communities and businesses. I spent a morning at the Charles Darwin Research Station, marveling at their giant land tortoise breeding program. In the charming town of Puerto Ayora, I wandered through shops like Chocolapagos, where owner Juan Daniel Navarro introduced me to the world of Ecuadorian cacao, sourced from sustainable farms like Hacienda Victoria and Costa Esmeraldas Cacao Co.
At Samay, I discovered beautiful handcrafted items by local artisans, including paintings by Tatjana Angermeyer, Magno Bennett, and Nina Lempenauer. The vibrant fish market showcased the local culture, complete with a resident pelican, lounging sea lions, and even two land iguanas strolling through the crowd.
My last day was spent at Tortuga Bay, a pristine beach accessible only by a hike. We kayaked, picnicked, and swam, sharing the waters with both human and marine life. As we left Pikaia, we were handed baby scalesia trees, a testament to the lodge’s commitment to sustainability. Since 2010, they have been planting these native trees, creating a new endemic forest on the island.
My land-based Galapagos adventure surpassed all expectations. It wasn’t just about ticking off wildlife sightings; it was about immersing myself in the unique culture, appreciating the local businesses, and contributing to the conservation efforts. It was a journey that left me deeply connected to the land, the people, and the spirit of the Galapagos.
