Nashville, rightfully dubbed Music City, conjures images of the Grand Ole Opry, the Bluebird Cafe, and Broadway’s honky-tonk bars. This reputation is well-deserved, with 180 music venues and a booming tourism industry, making it the ultimate destination for country music lovers. But there’s more to this city than just its musical heartbeat. It’s also a thriving hub of art, culinary excellence, and design, steeped in history and brimming with cultural gems. During a recent weekend trip, I aimed to experience this hidden side of Nashville, exploring its contemporary art scene, indulging in exquisite food, and immersing myself in the city’s unique design aesthetics – all while avoiding the crowds.
In the late 19th century, downtown Nashville’s Arts District was known as the Gentlemen’s Quarter, a haven for saloons, gambling, and prostitution. Today, it’s transformed into a haven for boutique hotels, fine dining, and exclusive clubs. Located in the heart of this district, just a stone’s throw from Printer’s Alley, the hub of the city’s printing industry around 1915, sits the Bobby Hotel on 4th Avenue. Designed by the David Mexico Group, the Bobby opened in 2018, showcasing a harmonious blend of Southern culture and contemporary design. The grand lobby is adorned with a massive hubcap chandelier crafted from vintage car parts, while the rooftop lounge boasts a 1956 Scenicruiser parked poolside, hosting guests, events, and VIPs during their Backyard Music Sessions. A 1966 Caravel Airstream serves as an additional bar, adding to the hotel’s retro charm. The hotel’s interiors are further punctuated by contemporary art exhibitions curated by Joshua Edward Bennett at Tinney Contemporary. The current exhibition, titled “Clear Mirror,” in reference to The Velvet Underground’s song “I’ll Be Your Mirror,” showcases works that explore the changing nature of subjects in the digital age through alternative portraiture.
Further south on 4th Avenue lies the luxurious Joseph Hotel, which opened its doors in August 2020. The hotel is a living work of art, subtly blending Southern design elements with Italian craftsmanship. A hand-tooled leather front desk created by the Italian shoe company Lucchese, Nudie Cohn-inspired embroidery on linens (Nudie Cohn was the renowned rodeo tailor who crafted bespoke creations for Gram Parsons, Dolly Parton, and other country music icons), ostrich leather-covered walls, Italian marble flooring, and bespoke experiences with suites equipped with record players and hand-selected music tailored to guests’ tastes, all contribute to the hotel’s exquisite atmosphere. Joel Pizzuti, the founder, believes in integrating exceptional art into every space, from the Yolan restaurant to the Four Walls bar. Yolan, named after Pizzuti’s grandmother and helmed by James Beard Award-winning chef Tony Mantuano, has been recognized as one of Food & Wine’s top 10 restaurants in the US. The menu is a celebration of Italian culinary delights, highlighting seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. The gnocchi with black truffle, halibut with mussels and clams, and the meticulously curated wine selection are must-tries. In-house pastry chef Noelle Marchetti’s modern techniques and artistic presentations are a feast for the senses. I will forever dream of her soaked coconut sponge cake with candied macadamia nut, lemon verbena espuma, and citrus. For an elevated dining experience, book La Tavola in La Cucina, a private dining space for up to four guests located within the kitchen. Witness the team’s artistic expertise as they prepare your meal.
On another evening, I ventured to the Southern Turf Club. Built in 1895 for bookmaker Marcus Cartwright, the building has served as a bordello, a saloon, and a gambling parlor. The original architecture has been meticulously restored, and the members-only club, owned by Bill Miller, honors its 19th-century aesthetic with museum-quality antiques. Stepping into the elevator and emerging into the club’s opulent interior, I gasped in awe. The space is a time capsule, featuring an ornately carved wooden bench with red velvet upholstery made for the English poet John Milton, lush oil paintings in gilded frames, four century-old fireplaces, and a hand-carved wall from the 1700s acquired from a Scottish pub. Original leather-bound books from the 1800s line the walls, while antique red and green glass pickle jars with candles illuminate the rooms. Every detail is carefully curated, with beautiful bronze chandeliers, elaborate dark floral wallpaper, and giant antique blue glass hashish, cocaine, and cannabis apothecary jars. The interiors perfectly complement the rare spirits selection, including the oldest known bottle of Rip Van Winkle from 1916, one of the club’s most prized possessions.
To delve deeper into the area’s debaucherous history, head to Skull’s Rainbow Room, a 1948 speakeasy-style lounge renowned for its craft cocktails and fine dining. Located in the basement of the Southern Turf building, Skull’s is home to a rowdy late-night burlesque show accompanied by a live jazz band. The space is rumored to be haunted by the ghost of its original owner, David “Skull” Schulman, who was murdered in the entrance. Guests have reported seeing apparitions of Skull roaming the streets with his beloved poodle Sweetie, who witnessed his death. Elvis, Johnny Cash, Patsy Cline, Bob Dylan, and Etta James have all graced the stage here and frequented the speakeasy, making the history palpable upon entry.
The following day, I was moved to tears visiting the Frist Art Museum for their current exhibition, “Rendez-Vous: Lee Alexander McQueen & Ann Ray.” The installation is a love letter to one of the most visionary designers of our time. McQueen, often labeled fashion’s “enfant terrible,” was frequently misunderstood during his lifetime. However, his close friend, French photographer Ann Ray, documented every moment of his life over thirteen years and forty-three collections, capturing both his creative process and intimate moments. Sixty pieces from his collections are displayed alongside 65 photographs hand-selected by Ray from her archives. Each garment showcases McQueen’s masterful artistry, many with dark undertones inspired by his personal history and Scottish heritage, exploring themes of death, power, and exploitation. The exhibition runs through August 25th, culminating with a talk on the 24th by model and Nashville resident Karen Elson, who will recount moments from her friendship and working relationship with the designer. This show is a must-see for any fashion enthusiast.
Before leaving Nashville, I indulged in some shopping at the city’s renowned vintage and second-hand stores. I snagged a gorgeous green lace jumpsuit at Buffalo Exchange on Elliston Place and then headed to Anaconda Vintage in East Nashville, where I purchased a 1970s yellow chiffon dress that would make Loretta Lynn envious. I left Nashville exhausted but creatively inspired by the way it seamlessly blends traditional Southern culture with contemporary art, design, and culinary excellence, honoring Music City’s roots while building an exciting present.
