Blumarine, after a period of transition, has unveiled its new creative director: the Georgian-born designer David Koma. Koma’s debut collection for the brand, focusing on pre-fall, embodies a fresh and fluid vision. Drawing inspiration from the ever-shifting nature of water and Nick Knight’s captivatingly blurred images of roses, the collection presents a streamlined evolution of Blumarine’s signature feminine style.
The aquatic theme subtly displaces the saccharine, introducing a touch of bohemian allure that, while reminiscent of Chloe, feels distinctly contemporary. Ethereal fabrics billow and cascade, shaping voluminous, see-through asymmetrical blouses adorned with trailing scarves, or transforming into tiered, hand-pleated mini dresses—perfect for a breezy stroll along the shore. To ground the overall lightness, slim, craquelé leather pants, laced from top to bottom, provide a form-fitting counterpoint to the diaphanous billows of chiffon and georgette.
Fringes, evocative of the flow of water, are frequently interspersed with crystal drops and miniature metallic roses. They sway gracefully from the ultra-short hem of a translucent sequined mini dress or pareo skirts, replacing the brand’s traditional feathery and marabou embellishments. The color palette boasts a sun-bleached sheen, as if bleached by the sun after a dip in the ocean. Delicate floral bouquets, appliqued onto languid slip dresses, suggest shells gathered haphazardly from the beach. Even the signature leopard spots undergo a transformation, appearing in a subdued, washed-out form, as if redesigned for a new breed of aquatic feline—the Blumarine aquatic leopard.
