Blumarine’s resort collection, designed by the in-house team, marks a moment of transition for the label. Having experienced recent turbulent times, the collection opted for a safe approach, drawing inspiration from the brand’s established codes, solidified in the early 1980s by founder Anna Molinari. This approach proved successful, leveraging the brand’s signature girly and frivolous aesthetic, which propelled Blumarine to fame in the 1990s with iconic advertising campaigns shot by legendary photographers like Helmut Newton, Albert Watson, and Ellen von Unwerth.
The collection prominently featured candy-hued, bell-shaped satin slip dresses adorned with sashes, subtly referencing the Miss Italia pageant. The word “Italia” was elegantly embroidered in Swarovski crystals, echoing the font of Blumarine’s logo. This motif reappeared on the back of satin robes transformed into wrap dresses, and was also printed as a ribbon amidst roses on a short, draped piece.
Blumarine’s signature elements of seduction were present throughout the collection: marabou trimmings, lace lingerie accents, leopard spots, faux-fur mink, and embellished florals. These elements were skillfully incorporated into various designs, including pretty little coats, long dusters in sheer georgette, and culotte-and-bralette combinations.
The result was a well-executed transition collection, offering appealing and sellable pieces. This demonstrates the talent within Blumarine’s design team, often the unsung heroes of the fashion industry. Their work was respectful, sensible, and undeniably effective.
However, for long-term fashion success, brands require a strong sense of direction. While reviving the archive can be a valuable starting point, simply relying on past glories is not enough. Blumarine needs to establish a clear vision for its future, ensuring its place in the ever-evolving landscape of fashion.
