While Tuscany’s allure might be waning in the face of post-pandemic tourism overload, its neighbor Umbria is emerging as a haven for discerning travelers seeking a more authentic Italian experience. And at the heart of this charm lies Borgo dei Conti Resort, a newly opened luxury hotel that feels like stepping into a medieval Italian village frozen in time.
Located near the charming village of Montepetriolo, Borgo dei Conti instantly captivates with its imposing gatehouse, complete with a portcullis, reminiscent of Renaissance landscape paintings. A winding path leads you past monumental Lebanese cedar trees to the main building, a striking edifice that seamlessly blends the feel of a historic castle with modern amenities. This former noble family residence, originally built in the early 20th century, underwent a meticulous two-year renovation, reducing the room count to just 40 spacious suites and rooms.
The hotel’s interior reveals a harmonious marriage of old and new. The original structure, adorned with frescoes and monumental fireplaces, is given a contemporary touch with sleek brass accents and mid-century inspired lighting. Stepping outside, you’re greeted by a refreshing breeze rustling through olive trees, inviting you to explore the labyrinthine corridors or enjoy a leisurely aperitivo in the courtyard.
The culinary experience at Borgo dei Conti is equally impressive. The flagship Cedri restaurant, named for the ancient cedar trees, showcases local ingredients, with many herbs and vegetables sourced from the estate’s own gardens. Executive chef Emanuele Mazzella’s tasting menu is a culinary journey through Umbrian flavors, featuring highlights like plump ravioli stuffed with suckling pig and lemon, and decadent veal with black truffle.
The hotel’s commitment to design excellence is evident in every detail. The interiors, overseen by the Milanese firm Spagnulo and Partners, feature textiles sourced from Giuditta Brozzetti, a local textile atelier in Perugia, and terracotta floors from nearby Montone. The delicate color palettes of each room are inspired by the works of Renaissance masters like Perugino and Raphael. My own room, one of two main suites in the central villa, boasted original stone fireplaces and frescoed ceilings, transporting me back in time.
Beyond the captivating architecture and interiors, Borgo dei Conti boasts a truly indulgent spa. This expansive space features a hydro-massage tub, Turkish-style steam room, sauna with stunning views of the grounds, a Himalayan salt room, and even a sensory deprivation tank. Indoor and outdoor heated swimming pools make it an ideal year-round destination, inviting guests to unwind amidst the picturesque Umbrian countryside.
While the resort itself offers endless opportunities for relaxation and exploration, the surrounding region is rich with historical and cultural treasures. The hotel staff can arrange visits to the Giuditta Brozzetti Museum Workshop in Perugia, or guide you to the serene shores of Lake Trasimeno. For the adventurous traveler, a vintage Alfa Romeo Spider rental offers a thrilling way to explore the scenic hilltops around the lake.
Yet, during my stay, I found it difficult to tear myself away from the enchanting world of Borgo dei Conti. A leisurely breakfast, followed by a stroll through the meticulously landscaped gardens, led to a relaxing afternoon by the pool. The laid-back Osteria del Borgo provided a delightful setting for a delicious dinner of beef carpaccio and pizza with a perfectly blistered crust. The day culminated with a rejuvenating visit to the spa, where a sauna, soak, and deep tissue massage left me feeling utterly revitalized.
Borgo dei Conti is a haven for those seeking a luxurious escape in a truly unique setting. Whether you’re drawn to the historical charm, the meticulously crafted design, or the abundance of culinary delights, this captivating resort promises a memorable Italian experience unlike any other. So, if you’re ready to venture beyond the well-trodden path of Tuscany, Borgo dei Conti awaits, ready to reveal the hidden treasures of Umbria.
