In recent years, even the most devoted Tuscany enthusiast may have felt their passion wane. While the region remains a treasure trove of art, history, delectable cuisine, and iconic landscapes, the post-pandemic surge in tourism has led to overcrowding and skyrocketing prices. This has prompted savvy travelers to seek out alternative destinations, and many have set their sights on Tuscany’s neighbor, Umbria.
Umbria, while not entirely unknown, has been overshadowed by its more famous neighbor. However, the region boasts its own unique charm, with winding streets, architectural wonders like Perugia, and renowned black truffle harvests. While Tuscany is renowned for its luxurious hotels, Umbria has taken a slower pace in catching up. But that’s all changing with the arrival of Borgo dei Conti Resort, a stunning new property that opened just a few weeks ago near the charming village of Montepetriolo.
Borgo dei Conti transports guests to a bygone era, seamlessly blending medieval charm with contemporary luxury. Approaching the resort, you’re greeted by an imposing gatehouse with a portcullis, reminiscent of Renaissance-era paintings. A winding road leads you to the main building, a striking edifice that could easily be mistaken for a historic medieval palace. In reality, the structure was built in the early 20th century for the noble Rossi-Scotti family, who desired the feel of a historic castle but with modern amenities.
After being converted to a hotel in the early 2000s, Borgo dei Conti underwent a complete renovation over the past two years, reducing the number of rooms to just 40 generously proportioned accommodations. The result is a breathtaking blend of historical grandeur and contemporary design. Stepping into the lobby, you’re greeted by a light-filled space featuring original frescoes, monumental fireplaces, and sleek brass accents. The air is filled with a refreshing breeze, rustling through the olive trees and inviting you to explore the property’s labyrinthine corridors.
One of the highlights of Borgo dei Conti is its flagship Cedri restaurant, named after the century-old cedar trees that grace the grounds. Executive chef Emanuele Mazzella crafts exquisite tasting menus showcasing local ingredients, with many herbs and vegetables sourced from the estate’s gardens. The dishes are a testament to the region’s culinary heritage, with highlights including plump ravioli stuffed with suckling pig and lemon, and a decadent veal dish with black truffle.
The resort’s design details are equally impressive, meticulously curated by the Milanese firm Spagnulo and Partners. The interiors feature textiles from Giuditta Brozzetti, a local textile atelier in Perugia, and terracotta tiles from nearby Montone. The delicate color palettes of each room are inspired by the works of Renaissance masters like Perugino and Raphael. My room, one of the two main suites in the central villa, boasted original stone fireplaces and frescoed ceilings, creating an authentic sense of history.
Borgo dei Conti also offers an extensive spa, featuring a hydromassage tub, Turkish-style steam room, sauna, Himalayan salt room, and even a sensory deprivation tank. There are also indoor and outdoor heated swimming pools, making this a perfect destination year-round. The resort offers a range of activities, from exploring the museums of Perugia and visiting the Giuditta Brozzetti textile workshop to taking a scenic drive around Lake Trasimenno in a vintage Alfa Romeo Spider.
However, the allure of Borgo dei Conti is such that I found myself reluctant to leave the resort’s serene embrace. The gardens, both English and Italian style, provided a peaceful retreat, and the poolside cabanas offered a relaxing escape. I enjoyed a hearty breakfast of eggs royale and a leisurely lunch at the laid-back Osteria del Borgo, indulging in beef carpaccio and a delicious pizza with a perfectly blistered crust. The day concluded with a rejuvenating session at the spa, followed by a deep tissue massage. The resort’s outdoor cinema offered a chance to watch a classic Italian film under the stars, but the comfort of my bed was too tempting to resist.
Borgo dei Conti caters to diverse tastes and desires. It can be a base for exploring Umbria’s historical and cultural treasures, a romantic retreat for couples seeking luxurious pampering, or a haven for design enthusiasts seeking to immerse themselves in Italian craftsmanship. The resort is poised to become a word-of-mouth sensation, attracting discerning travelers seeking an authentic Italian experience. So, if you’re looking for a unique getaway beyond the crowds of Tuscany, Borgo dei Conti awaits, offering a truly unforgettable escape.
