Chanel made a triumphant return to the Grand Palais for its Spring/Summer 2025 show during the final day of Paris Fashion Week. The iconic venue, which boasts a long history with the brand, was the perfect setting for Chanel’s latest collection, a celebration of women’s empowerment and the spirit of flight.
The show was centered around an open birdcage, evoking Jean-Paul Goude’s famous short film “L’Oiseau de paradis” (or “L’Esprit de Chanel”), starring Vanessa Paradis as Coco Chanel’s canary for the iconic Coco fragrance. Paradis, a longtime Chanel muse, graced the front row of the show, dressed in a floral silhouette, adding to the show’s captivating ambiance.
While navigating a period of creative transition following the departure of Virginie Viard in June, Chanel showcased a collection designed by the brand’s creative studio, which also crafted the previous Haute Couture collection presented at the Opéra Garnier.
The collection is a testament to movement, featuring 76 airy and lightweight silhouettes. As the show notes state, “The collection is at the service of an idea, and to this end, pays homage to women who, like Gabrielle Chanel, have freed themselves from society’s vision of them.” The collection honors women aviators, embodying their pioneering spirit through aviator jackets, tailored suits with imperfections, sartorial uniforms, and flowing gowns. The collection also pays tribute to the women of the roaring twenties, who played a pivotal role in the fight for female empowerment throughout the last century – a movement Gabrielle Chanel herself actively participated in.
Chanel’s signature little black dress was reimagined with a luxurious twist, incorporating delicate transparencies and neo-crinolines. The iconic tweed fabric was presented in pastel hues, while chiffon capes added a new dimension to the silhouettes, featuring minimalist designs adorned with colorful feathers.
Birds were a recurring theme throughout the collection. Silver feather belts accentuated the silhouettes, while flowing long dresses and capes were adorned with colorful feathers.
The show was a visual ballet, featuring a vibrant color palette that evoked both Chanel’s signature style and the softness of summer. Models gracefully glided down the runway, showcasing the collection’s elegant designs. The highlight of the show was the performance by Riley Keough, a close friend of the house and daughter of Lisa Marie Presley, who presented her interpretation of Prince’s “When Doves Cry.” This unforgettable moment served as a fitting finale to the historic reunion of Chanel and the Grand Palais.
