Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2025 show, held at the Grand Palais, unfurled under the enchanting theme of freedom. This collection marks a new era for the house, following the departure of former creative director Virginie Viard, and it was met with palpable excitement and intrigue. The venue itself was a testament to the collection’s message: a striking open birdcage—a poignant homage to the gilded metal cage that still anchors Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment today. This evocative symbol hinted at a collection dedicated to the audacious women who transcended societal constraints in the early 1900s, encapsulating a relentless pursuit of liberation.
The collection itself was a masterful blend of strength and grace, showcasing a delicate interplay of soft tailoring and fluid accents. Inspired by the dazzling Music Halls of yesteryear, it celebrated the spirit of the roaring twenties and the Garçonne movement, showcasing a bold blend of masculine and feminine elements. Cropped tailoring, trompe-l’œil detailing, and burlesque suits adorned with feather boas and elevated platform footwear took center stage, while a pastel palette of delicate baby pinks mirrored the flooring, and soft greens echoed the museum’s reimagined iron architecture.
A recurring motif of taking flight emerged, evident through aviator jackets adorned with whimsical Peter Pan collars, flowing silk capes featuring Pierrot collars, and feather prints intertwined with bird embroideries. The collection emanated a sense of movement and lightness, where transparency, graphic lines, and jewel-like buttons reminiscent of the venue contributed to an overall narrative of liberation.
If you’re looking for a standout piece from this collection, the aviator jackets with their feathered Peter Pan collars are absolute head-turners. But the pièce de résistance? The suits elegantly draped in feather boas and adorned with headbands featuring intricate detailing. This collection, imbued with a playful and whimsical spirit, is sure to be a timeless addition to any wardrobe.