Chanel made a grand return to the Grand Palais after a four-year hiatus. Sunlight streamed through the newly renovated glass roof, illuminating the tweed-clad guests. While whispers of the new artistic director swirled among industry insiders since the start of New York Fashion Week a month prior, they seemed to be the furthest thing from anyone’s mind here. Guests were busy taking selfies and admiring each other’s looks, creating a lighthearted atmosphere.
Meanwhile, the front row buzzed with speculation not only about who would fill the empty seat but also what kind of talent they should possess. Was a marketing genius needed, or someone with a strong creative vision? And could anyone truly embody the house without being a woman? Everyone had an opinion, including Édi Slimane, who had just surprised the world with CELINE’s collection launch online over the weekend.
With the wind of freedom at their backs, Chanel’s creative studio embarked on a new chapter for the Spring-Summer 2025 season, finding inspiration in the Grand Palais, a space deeply connected to the house’s history. The collection’s most captivating element was the handcrafted interpretation of the building’s Art Deco motifs.
From skirts with thigh-high slits adorned with layers of feathers to chiffon capes and fresh platform shoes, the collection exuded lightness, airiness, and a touch of ephemerality. A giant birdcage placed at the heart of the Grand Palais evoked memories of the 1991 Vanessa Paradis commercial directed by Jean-Paul Goude, while the models’ strides reminded us of the house’s enduring legacy.
The creative studio cleverly reinvented the iconic tweed, introducing candy-like pastel hues and transforming signature skirt suits into chic short pant suits. The collection even included unexpected pieces like sparkling black denim jackets and jeans, capturing the casual, yet stylish, spirit of young women working in the atelier and incorporating Chanel into their everyday lives.
Evening wear showcased a playful approach, combining embellished denim with feather-printed capes, and sparkling tweed jumpsuits with flowing chiffon trains.
As the show reached its climax, Riley Keough, actress and model, entered the birdcage. She took a seat on a swing and serenaded the audience with Prince’s “When Doves Cry.”
Where will the house fly to next? The entire industry waits with bated breath.
See the full Chanel Spring-Summer 2025 collection.
