Few designer appointments in recent times have generated as much buzz as Chemena Kamali’s at Chloé. Her appointment, announced last year, was met with widespread excitement, partly due to her impressive credentials. Kamali has a deep understanding of the brand, having worked at Chloé twice before landing the coveted top job. She also shares a certain kinship with the label’s legendary former designer, Karl Lagerfeld, both being German and having multiple stints at the French house.
However, it takes more than shared history to achieve the kind of resonance Chloé has today. Kamali’s success lies in her instinctive understanding of the brand’s essence, a blend of intuition, hard work, courage, and even a touch of luck. This fortuitous mix was evident when Vice President Kamala Harris chose to wear Kamali’s designs on two separate occasions at the Democratic National Convention last month, including a coconut brown dress that perfectly captured the viral energy surrounding her coconut-tree remarks.
The media spotlight might have added pressure to Kamali’s second collection, but she showed no sign of self-doubt. Speaking at a preview, she expressed her excitement for the season: “It was a fun season. We had a good energy, because you felt how the first show was resonating and it gives you a lot of happiness. You then just want to give everyone more, you know? And we’re exploring other ideas, other sides of Chloé.”
The collection itself was a confident evolution of Kamali’s debut, incorporating more casual elements. High-waist flared jeans, reminiscent of Phoebe Philo’s designs for the brand in spring 2004, and a playful pink flamingo bathing suit, evoking the cheeky spirit of the Stella McCartney era, offer a wider appeal than the more elaborate ruffles and laces seen in her first show. These casual touches, along with the adorable kitten-heel jelly sandals, are poised to be instant hits.
Kamali’s deep understanding of Chloé’s history is evident throughout the collection. Her studio mood board was filled with photographs of Lagerfeld’s iconic designs, inspiring elements like the waist shapers from spring 1977 and the lace bloomers from spring 1978. These vintage pieces, reimagined for 2025, have the potential to reshape how young women approach sexy dressing.
The collection’s overall silhouette was softened by the addition of sturdy workwear cotton, soft suede, and leather jackets, all featuring generous gathers along their strong shoulder lines. While these jackets provided a touch of balance to the collection’s sensual lightness, they might have been a little too heavy for the brand’s signature aesthetic.
Ultimately, it’s the freshness and lightness that make Chloé what it is, and Kamali’s assured hand with both elements is on full display. The floral-bouquet-print dresses, cascading in ruffles of chiffon, shorter in front and longer in back, floated beautifully down the runway, catching the light with each step.
Chloé’s It girls, and perhaps even other women who typically shy away from florals and frills, are eagerly anticipating the arrival of next summer. These dresses are simply dreamlike, and Kamali’s second collection proves that she is the perfect person to guide Chloé into a new era of stylish confidence.
