Chemena Kamali, the designer who single-handedly revived the early 2000s boho trend with her ethereal tiered dresses, is back with a new twist. This time, she’s introducing a collection for Chloé that takes inspiration from the Victorian era. Prepare to embrace a new must-have: Victorian undergarments!
Kamali’s spring show opened with a model wearing a delicate, sheer, embroidered white blouse paired with matching pantaloons. The pantaloons, cinched at the waist and ankle, ballooned out gracefully, creating a look both elegant and playful. Other variations included cotton voile with lace insets, cropped versions, and swishier silk styles with lace edges. Kamali also showcased tiny bloomer shorts, a modern take on the balloon skirt trend currently popular with younger generations.
While wearing underwear as outerwear isn’t new to the runway, Kamali’s approach is refreshingly modern and personal. She draws inspiration from the 19th century, where pantaloons (or pantalettes) were worn under crinolines and hoop skirts. Women wore longer versions for modesty, while girls opted for cropped styles that peeked out from under their dresses.
This isn’t Kamali’s first foray into historical fashion. She often cites the 1970s, the birthplace of the bohemian trend, as a source of inspiration. At the time, designers were reinterpreting the fashion of the 19th century, just as Kamali is doing now. Even Karl Lagerfeld, Chloé’s creative director from the 1960s to the 1990s, drew inspiration from the era, presenting cotton poplin pantaloons in 1976 and underpinning-inspired styles in 1994.
Kamali’s approach to her designs reflects her deep connection to Chloé’s history. “I know the archives inside out, I don’t have this objective view on Chloé; it’s a very personal connection to it,” she shared on the Vogue podcast earlier this month. “I don’t think that I need to sort of force anything out of me. It’s something that comes quite naturally.”
Bloomers have been steadily gaining traction in recent years, becoming a wardrobe staple for a certain type of fashion-forward young woman. They were also a highlight in Prada’s fall 2024 collection. At Chloé, they perfectly align with Kamali’s own approach to dressing. She is a passionate vintage shopper, and it’s easy to imagine her finding vintage pantalettes on one of her shopping excursions and thinking, “Oh, I could just wear these as pants!”
As we move into spring 2025, fashion seems to be embracing a bit of eccentricity and personality. Kamali understands that girls just want to have fun, and she’s delivering a collection that encourages them to do just that.
