Christian Wijnants is back, and he’s bringing a sense of peace with him. After a two-year break, marked by personal challenges and a retreat to Sri Lanka, the Belgian designer has returned with a spring collection that embodies serenity and ease. It’s a collection deeply rooted in his newfound dedication to yoga and a yearning for simplicity.
The collection, unveiled in gilded salons overlooking the Arc de Triomphe, was set to a soundtrack any yoga devotee would appreciate. Wijnants described it as a “peaceful, personal experience,” a reflection of his own journey toward tranquility. This sentiment is evident in the soft tailoring, forgiving shapes, flowing scarves, and an overarching sense of ease that define the collection.
Wijnants, known for his vibrant colors and bold prints, has opted for a more restrained palette this season. He explained, “Cliché as it sounds, I wanted to go back to how everything was slower during the pandemic. I wanted to reconnect with a serenity in my life that I had not experienced in a long, long time.” The “less is more” mantra inspired him to embrace organic textures like raffia, seen on a deep-V dress and sleeveless top, and to create “perfectly imperfect” checked motifs by layering printed organza.
There’s a renewed focus on shoulders in this collection, evident in white linen safari jackets, corsetry, summer knits, and shirting designed to sit back from the nape. Sleeveless bombers are crafted from Japanese cotton-coated organdy. Prints, while present, remain understated, utilizing shades of gray punctuated by dabs of copper, green, or royal blue. Wijnants drew inspiration from the work of textile artist Mrinalini Mukherjee, whose use of cords is echoed in pieces featuring organic crochet and macramé.
The front row was a testament to Wijnants’ loyal following, with several clients dressed in the vibrant colors, bold prints, and intricate textiles that have defined his work for 22 years. While this collection may be more restrained by comparison, it’s a refreshing departure. Although not every piece resonated, it’s good to see Wijnants back in the game, embracing a newfound sense of tranquility and sharing it with the world through his designs.