Every now and then, a designer emerges and captures the industry’s attention, sparking whispers of excitement and anticipation. Colleen Allen is one such designer, quietly making waves with her distinctive vision. A Chicago native with a background in menswear at The Row and a pedigree that includes internships with Raf Simons at Calvin Klein and studies at Parsons School of Design and Central Saint Martins, Allen’s rise has been marked by a deliberate, measured approach.
Her debut collection, presented by appointment only last season, garnered widespread acclaim and was swiftly picked up by Ssense and select boutiques. This season, she returned to Fashion Week, once again showcasing her collection in a low-key, intimate setting. This understated approach perfectly complements her clothing, which is characterized by a minimalist aesthetic and a focus on natural materials.
Allen finds inspiration in the textures of her fabrics, primarily composed of natural textiles, and in the intricate details of Victorian garments, particularly underpinnings. Her collections are a curated blend of these two influences, resulting in garments that are both timeless and captivating.
Color plays a significant role in Allen’s designs. She utilizes bright hues with an idiosyncratic touch, prioritizing depth over saturation or color blocking. Her use of cotton velvet, a fabric she finds more appealing than silk’s inherent shine, is evident in whimsical capelets and bloomers, intricately pleated and gathered to highlight the inherent beauty of the fabric. She approaches jersey with a similar sensibility, crafting uniquely structured dresses that defy conventional silhouettes. “I created these silhouettes by adding fabric rather than taking,” she explains, referencing the volume she masterfully drapes around the hips and hems.
Allen’s descriptions of her clothing are as intriguing as the designs themselves. She describes her bright orange hue as “a way of using color as the starting point of a sort of spiritual embodiment,” yet finds its resemblance to a peach when rendered in velvet “delicious.” Similarly, her charming and strangely sexy collages of fabric remnants stitched onto mesh dresses and blouses evoke a sense of playful whimsy: “I was thinking of baby chicks when they go from fluffy baby feathers to adult feathers, I became obsessed with the level of texture and density in that awkward phase.” These evocative descriptions imbue her clothing with a sense of reality and sincerity, making them all the more alluring.
Beyond her signature use of color and texture, Allen creates pieces that speak to a timeless elegance. Her collection features deliciously slippery silk twill basics – a slip, bloomers, and pants – paired with mesh underwear and tailored capris. A charming shirt dress, fashioned in the shape of a Victorian dressing gown, showcases her masterful manipulation of fabric, with twisted and crushed pleats and raw hems. “I was looking back at when people owned only four dresses, so they would all have that worn-in kind of softness,” Allen explains.
One of the standout pieces in her collection is a fleece jacket lined in silk. The shell of the jacket is intentionally smaller than the interior lining, allowing the silk to spill out from the hems and sleeves. A hook and eye closure, a signature element throughout her collection, adorns the princess seams at the back, creating a charming mini bustle when closed. The jacket’s reversible design adds an element of versatility, with the lining creating “a billowing sort of blouse” when worn inside out.
It is this kind of frisky ingenuity that has earned Colleen Allen a devoted following. Her ability to blend Victorian charm with modern sensibilities, her playful exploration of textures and colors, and her thoughtful approach to design have positioned her as a rising star in the fashion world. Her future promises to be as exciting and unexpected as her designs themselves.
