Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci is more similar to Tom Ford’s than Alessandro Michele’s and, as he continues to flesh out his stripped-back, hyper-sexy vision, he’s looking to the women who modelled the brand’s micro hemlines the first time around. Hi Kate Moss!
The supermodel, who slinked down the Milan runways with smudged eyeliner, bedhead hair, and whispers of party tops circa ’96, is back in the Gucci fold, and she’s sounding the alarm for the upcoming cruise 2025 show in London.
While the resort presentations are typically glamorous affairs across the globe (the collections were originally designed for luxury shoppers who island hop all summer), De Sarno is leaning into the spirit of a city that has the grit of his first Gucci collections.
The teaser visuals for the designer’s first resort outing on May 13 shows Moss, in a black lace negligée-style minidress with a classic black blazer shrugged over the top, exiting The Savoy presumably en route to check out the Tate Modern show venue, leaving a trail of Cosmoss’s signature black pepper and tonka bean behind her.
Confused? Don’t be! House founder Guccio Gucci worked at The Strand’s legendary hotel as a porter during his youth. While shuttling luggage between suites, the wide-eyed Florence native developed an understanding of the world of luxury and promptly returned to Italy with his sights set on leather goods design.
The Tate Modern – a stone’s throw from The Savoy across The Thames – evokes the melting pot of inspiration that London has been for Gucci himself and his successors (Michele memorably staged his cruise 2016 show at Westminster Abbey).
Joining Moss in drumming up hype for De Sarno’s new-look Gucci is Little Simz, who is partial to the label’s eccentric tailoring – and the odd colour-pop Jackie bag. Note that both De Sarno muses wear sunglasses – the most affordable entry-point to any house – in the new images. Simz’s red pair has already become a summer essential among Vogue staffers, and no doubt show attendees – including current Gucci friends and a handful of newcomers that shows De Sarno has his own contacts to call on – will line the art gallery’s benches with the same graphic eyewear on.
While De Sarno has previously said, “I don’t have a theme – ever. My theme is the clothes,” his choice of venue, models, and products in the cruise preamble alone suggests that he is mapping out a label that is much more about the real subcultures and people who inspire him, rather than the wings of folklore that Gucci has fluttered along on for some time under Michele.
The fact that Moss, a walking advert for bohemian glamour, has been tempted away from her home at Saint Laurent to support De Sarno’s tenure shows that the skimpy designs we have seen so far are worth their salt. Yes, more hot pants are coming, but De Sarno is clearly keyed into the marriage of modernity-meets-nostalgia that sells.
