Daniel Lee’s arrival at Burberry, a brand deeply rooted in British heritage, was a homecoming of sorts. Born and raised in Bradford, England, Lee draws inspiration from the diverse cultural tapestry of his homeland, weaving it into the brand’s identity. “I’m inspired by our diverse style and culture, from ceremonial and royal dress to the strict codes of youth subcultures in nightclubs, football, and galleries,” he explains. “For me, it’s important that Burberry is relatable and progressive, and that everyone can understand it.”
His autumn/winter 2024 collection embodies this sentiment, a captivating narrative that intertwines the characters of Burberry’s past and present, proposing a fresh and invigorating interpretation of Britishness.
When asked about his creative process, Lee emphasizes the collection’s foundation: “The collections are built around an idea of modern Britishness. London is one of the most diverse cities in the world—the wit and sense of humour unify everyone.” He further elaborates on the collection’s motifs: “We’ve used motifs that are familiar, and feel joyful and optimistic, which is important. So is functionality, which is a huge part of Burberry’s heritage. The trench is protective and made for performance in all weather conditions.”
Lee draws on iconic elements of Burberry’s history, such as the Equestrian Knight Design, a house logo dating back to 1901, prominently featured throughout the collection and branding in its signature Knight Blue hue. And of course, the iconic Burberry Check remains central to the brand’s heritage, though Lee has infused it with a modern touch by brightening its colors and experimenting with its patterns.
Regarding emerging trends in fashion, Lee expresses a unique perspective: “I’m not sure that trends are relevant anymore. It’s about having a recognizable identity and developing that, rather than a seasonal look. It feels like the strongest brands are doing what they do and aren’t taking too much notice of others in terms of colour, fabrication or silhouette.”
Lee’s own journey in fashion has been deeply influenced by iconic figures like John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, and Vivienne Westwood, who ignited his passion for fashion during his teenage years, leading him to pursue his studies at Central Saint Martins. His professional experiences, including internships at Martin Margiela’s atelier and collaborations with Balenciaga under Nicolas Ghesquière, have further honed his creative vision.
His respect for Christopher Bailey’s contributions to Burberry, particularly the sense of community fostered during his tenure, is evident in Lee’s approach to the brand. “It feels like the strongest brands are doing what they do and aren’t taking too much notice of others in terms of colour, fabrication or silhouette.”
As the Chief Creative Officer of Burberry, Lee embraces the dynamism of his role, stating, “There is no typical day and that’s a good thing. Our plans change according to what we need to achieve.” He highlights the dedication of his team and the interconnectedness of his work, emphasizing that his personal life often informs his creative endeavors.
Lee’s personal passions, including skincare, fitness, and the arts, play a significant role in his life outside of work. He finds solace in the gym and enjoys attending performances at Sadler’s Wells and concerts. London’s vibrant art scene, from established galleries like the Tate to emerging spaces, is another source of inspiration.
Lee’s involvement in choosing the individuals who embody the new vision for Burberry extends beyond mere fame. He emphasizes the importance of authentic relationships and collaborations. “We choose people to represent us in our shows and campaigns because we like what they stand for, and they reflect the communities we are a part of.”
He describes Karen, a prominent figure representing the Burberry spirit, as “warm, intelligent, and funny.” Similarly, he praises Bright, a talented performer, for his “confidence, hard work, and natural charisma.”
When asked about his favorite piece from the winter 2024 collection, Lee highlights the final look, featuring Maya Wigram in a leather trench, a warm jumper, a long kilt, and Saddle High boots. “The idea was to bring the outside in, so we staged the show in a tent in Victoria Park in East London. All the looks were about feeling warm and protected from the elements. The last look brought that concept full circle, I think—there’s a sense of adventure in the looks. Functional, but also youthful and confident.”
Lee’s vision for Burberry embodies the spirit of modern Britain, blending heritage and innovation, diversity and inclusivity. His unwavering commitment to fostering authentic relationships and pushing creative boundaries promises a captivating future for the iconic brand.
