After a period of transition, Blumarine has unveiled its new creative director: Georgian-born designer David Koma. Koma’s first collection for the brand, set to debut for pre-fall 2024, marks a new direction for Blumarine, one inspired by the flowing movement of water and the dreamlike, blurred images of roses captured by photographer Nick Knight. This collection offers a more refined interpretation of the brand’s signature girly aesthetic, introducing a fresh, boho-infused spirit.
The aquatic theme serves as a refreshing counterpoint to the brand’s traditionally saccharine approach, injecting a sense of effortless cool that evokes the spirit of Chloe. Ethereal fabrics, like billowing chiffon and delicate georgette, take center stage, draped into voluminous, asymmetrical blouses with trailing scarves and tiered, hand-pleated minidresses—pieces that are perfectly suited for a breezy stroll along the beach.
To ground the airy lightness of these flowing silhouettes, Koma introduces slim, crackled leather pants, laced all the way up, creating a form-fitting contrast against the diaphanous layers. Fringes, reminiscent of cascading water, are interspersed with delicate crystal drops and tiny metallic roses, adorning the ultra-short hems of translucent sequined minidresses and pareo skirts, replacing the brand’s signature feather and marabou trims.
The color palette reflects a sun-bleached, post-swim vibrancy, with floral bouquets appliquéd onto languid slip dresses, reminiscent of shells gathered from the shore. Even the iconic Blumarine leopard print undergoes a transformation, appearing in a washed-out, ethereal form, as if reimagined for a new breed of aquatic felines. The result is a collection that is both familiarly Blumarine and undeniably fresh, promising an exciting future for the brand under Koma’s creative direction.
