Dries Van Noten, a name synonymous with captivating design, took his final bow on the runway with his Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection. This farewell show, a poignant event witnessed by fellow designers and countless journalists, served as a powerful testament to Van Noten’s enduring legacy. Many in attendance, having followed his career for years and worn his creations, felt the weight of this momentous occasion.
Van Noten’s departure, amidst a constant game of creative director musical chairs, brought a unique shock to the fashion world. While appointing new creative directors is a long-standing tradition in major houses – Chanel, for example, has done it for almost a century – their role typically involves refreshing a well-established legacy, not replacing a living founder. Finding a suitable successor for Dries Van Noten’s position wasn’t easy.
The brand’s design studio crafted the current season’s collection, leaving everyone wondering: What’s changed? As models walked the runway, a collective query echoed in the air.
The collection was a celebration of the signature Dries Van Noten aesthetic. Rich color palettes, intricate pattern combinations, and signature embroidery were all present. The collection, as stated in the show notes, embodied a “convergence,” bringing together the brand’s history and future.
Online explorations revealed that the 1997-98 Autumn/Winter show, with its jewel tones, diverse florals, and fusion of Eastern and Western aesthetics, served as a touchstone for the current collection. In today’s fashion landscape, revisiting past designs is becoming commonplace. Reviving past creations taps into a collective sense of nostalgia while fueling interest in the fashion of previous generations. This approach makes Van Noten’s return to the archives understandable, particularly his choice to draw inspiration from the 1997-98 Autumn/Winter collection – the foundation of the brand, released just three years after the launch of womenswear.
The collection retained the Dries Van Noten DNA but infused a distinct element: lingerie-inspired touches. This new direction, exemplified by pieces like gold lace bandeau tops, sleek draped pants, fuchsia pink jacquard coats, and embroidered evening jackets, might feel unfamiliar to long-time fans, but it’s essential for attracting new generations.
Even though Van Noten was subtly present, watching the show from near the backstage entrance, his influence remains deeply felt. The evolution of the house continues.
During the show, I found myself seated near some of the brand’s most devoted fans. One woman, whose closet is reportedly filled with Van Noten pieces from over the years, repeatedly snapped photos of a look featuring a relaxed floral jacquard knit vest paired with a chartreuse green shirt and crinkled silver-blue cropped pants. This look embodies the unique appeal of Van Noten – unexpected combinations that somehow work.
Personally, I was drawn to a classic yet relaxed tailored look, a pinstripe blazer tucked into paper bag waist pants. While the specific looks resonated differently with each individual, all embodied the essence of Dries Van Noten.
