The air crackled with anticipation, not just from the dazzling array of fabrics and colors, but also from the infectious laughter echoing from within the apartment. Duro Olowu, known for his exuberant designs, showcased his spring collection in a space as vibrant and bold as the clothes themselves. Even before seeing the collection, the joyful atmosphere hinted at the designer’s playful approach to fashion. “Sometimes people say, how come we end up laughing so much at these previews?” Olowu remarked. “Well, I think if you’re not laughing, you’re not having fun.” And fun, indeed, was the operative word.
This season’s collection was a masterful blend of joyful exuberance and meticulous craftsmanship. The show opened with a trio of stunning sunflower-yellow tailored outfits – a trench coat, and two pantsuits, one roomy, the other cinched. The clever design allowed for effortless mixing and matching, showcasing Olowu’s keen eye for versatility. The 1920s-inspired pieces, featuring a bespoke striped print reminiscent of Victorian book endpapers, were a particular highlight. The contrasting colors and meticulously seamed diagonals created a striking visual effect. “I wanted that familiarity but still that strangeness,” Olowu explained, “It’s about taking a delicate pattern and making it quite bold.”
Boldness was certainly a recurring theme. The runway was a kaleidoscope of vibrant prints: multi-print bias dresses clashing romantic florals with geometric block prints, accented with ruffled sleeves; knee-length coats playfully paired with kick-flare black slub silk trousers; boxy duster coats adorned with playful polka-dot buttons; and a show-stopping jacket crafted from a dazzling combination of gold lamé, chenille, and raffia. Each piece felt alive, a testament to Olowu’s unique design philosophy. “I wanted each piece to feel like its own living, pulsating thing,” he articulated.
Yet, beneath the riot of color and pattern lay a surprising emphasis on practicality. Last season’s surprisingly popular hoodies returned, styled with sandals for an effortlessly chic look. A supremely elegant bomber jacket, featuring precisely cut bell sleeves, promises to be a bestseller. The collection also featured a winning sleeveless, paneled tuxedo jacket and trousers, instantly garnering gasps of admiration from the audience. The overall effect was one of dressed-up ease – a sophisticated nonchalance that beautifully encapsulated Olowu’s design vision. “It’s about turning it down, but revving it up,” he explained. And in the hands of Duro Olowu, this seemingly paradoxical concept translates into truly stunning, wearable art. This collection is not just about looking good; it’s about feeling good, too.
