Stepping into Dušan’s showroom, nestled in an elegant building on a quiet Milan street, is like entering a serene sanctuary. Ancient and Egyptian art treasures, a testament to Dušan’s passion for collecting, fill the space, their presence juxtaposed with an extraordinary installation of bonsai trees. Dušan Paunovic himself exists in a world of his own, a world resistant to the fleeting whims of fashion trends. He serves a loyal clientele, composed of the discerning upper crust, who have remained devoted to his designs for over 25 years. They wear Dušan alongside esteemed luxury brands like Hermès and Loro Piana, a testament to the enduring quality and timeless appeal of his creations.
“I don’t do trends,” he stated firmly. “You won’t find the latest craze here. What you will find are designs that I adjust slightly each season, but fundamentally remain unchanged. It’s my formula—each year you can add new pieces without needing to discard what you bought the season before.” This philosophy reflects a commitment to quality and longevity, values deeply ingrained in Paunovic’s design ethos. His journey in fashion began at the Milan atelier of the legendary designer Zoran in the ’90s, where he honed his craft and absorbed the principles that would define his own signature style. “I’m his only legitimate heir,” he said, acknowledging the profound influence Zoran had on his creative path. Zoran, a visionary designer known for his exacting standards, worked exclusively with the finest fabrics, complementing his linear, luxurious creations. Paunovic, like his mentor, is fiercely independent and self-funded, unwavering in his commitment to his artistic vision.
“You have to stay consistent and authentic to who you are,” Paunovic emphasizes, underscoring the importance of staying true to one’s values and creative identity. This philosophy is reflected in his meticulous approach to design. Every garment is meticulously perfected, ensuring the cut, fit, and details are flawless. His signature designs feature loose, fluid, and oversized shapes—coats and jackets are offered in a single size, designed to flatter a range of body types. Paunovic’s curated wardrobe includes a handful of thoughtfully designed pieces crafted from exquisite fabrics: a flowing oversized kimono trench coat, a slightly more fitted unstructured batwing jacket for this season, wide-leg pajama pants with an elasticated waist (this season he added an option in the softest suede), and square-cut tops that look terribly chic layered over his signature sarong skirts, which wrap around the body with ease.
This season, Paunovic ventured into dresses, a category he usually avoids. “They aren’t really my thing,” he declared matter-of-factly, revealing a touch of his signature understated humor. Nevertheless, he introduced a flattering design in ribbed viscose, featuring a fitted bodice that flares into a long skirt, a subtle departure that adds a touch of newness to his established repertoire. Paunovic also experimented with a refreshed color palette. While he typically favors neutrals and black, he loosened his restraint, adding shades like forest green, deep burgundy, and bright Chartreuse yellow. “But I’m still unsure about that,” he said, eyeing a beautifully tailored chemise in liquid, sensuous silk satin in a soft coral pink, visibly puzzled about the bold new hue. This hesitant embrace of color highlights his unwavering dedication to quality and timeless elegance, even as he ventures into new territory, always ensuring his designs remain true to his core philosophy of understated luxury and enduring style.
