Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata of Setchu brought a captivating fusion of cultures to Venice in collaboration with Davies & Son, the oldest independent tailor on London’s renowned Savile Row. During the opening days of La Biennale, Kuwata presented a special project at Palazzo Venier, showcasing meticulously crafted tailored suits that blended the traditions of Japan with the impeccable artistry of Savile Row.
To complement his exchange with the esteemed Savile Row maestros, Kuwata curated a multi-sensory installation showcasing a collection of specially crafted objects sourced from Japan. This artistic touch infused a contemporary essence into time-honored artisanal practices. Upon entering the palazzo’s ornate stuccoed entryway, guests were greeted by an oversized foldable paper lamp, its deep shade of black defying the conventional white hues of ceremonial lanterns that illuminate Japanese shrines. Exquisitely crafted tatami mats were veiled in sheer black Setchu fabric, while ceramic stools featured removable lids that doubled as ikebana trays, and traditional candles were cast in organic wax.
Kuwata also reimagined the ubiquitous Italian espresso cup with an iconoclastic twist. A Japanese potter was commissioned to mimic the rounded shape of udon noodle bowls, transforming the standard perforated handle into the solid form of a two-euro coin. The accompanying coaster drew inspiration from small dishes used to hold salt for warding off bad luck.
Kuwata’s laser-sharp design approach, bordering on obsessive, resulted in an outcome that exuded exquisite elegance. “Setchu embodies the harmonious encounter of East and West,” remarked Kuwata. “This project seamlessly interlaces Japanese and Italian elements. Espresso, a beverage deeply ingrained in Italian culture, contributes to their longevity and imparts a positive start to each day. Setchu seeks to convey a message of appreciation.”
Challenging the rigid sartorial codes of Savile Row, Kuwata skillfully coaxed Davies & Son out of their comfort zone. After extensive discussions and fittings, they jointly conceived three bespoke non-gender-specific garments—a sophisticated black suit, a versatile black coat dress, and an ethereal white coat distinguished by an extra-long trailing hem.
British tailoring, with its military origins, typically adheres to structured silhouettes, employing robust fabrics, rigid shapes, and meticulously precise details crafted to endure a lifetime. Kuwata sought to maintain this rigorous approach while introducing elements that echoed the foldable nature of Japanese kimonos. “Savile Row tailors often jest that their suits can stand upright on their own,” but Kuwata’s unwavering courtesy, coupled with his tailoring prowess, ultimately won the day.
To achieve the desired foldable quality, Kuwata and the skilled tailors at Davies & Son meticulously redesigned the garment’s interior. The lining was intricately cut like a puzzle to ensure flexibility, and every stitch was executed by hand. Details were refined with a touch of lightness and humor, resulting in flawlessly tailored suits that exuded elegance while being eminently practical for both travel and everyday wear, extending their utility beyond formal occasions.
Kuwata’s installation served not only as an artistic showcase but also as a couture salon, where discerning patrons could schedule appointments for bespoke fittings. The single-breasted suit, crafted from fine black herringbone wool, exuded a relaxed allure, striking a balance between sharpness and softness. The elongated silhouette of a black wool jacket could be effortlessly transformed into a flattering coat dress through the clever use of concealed buttons. The pièce de résistance, however, was an opulent double-breasted coat in white cashmere, its long train making a bold statement.
Softening the rigidity of Savile Row’s ceremonial dress codes while preserving its impeccable construction is no easy feat. Only a designer of Kuwata’s caliber, with his exceptional talent and unwavering determination, could have achieved such a remarkable fusion of tradition and innovation.
