In a world where fashion often thrives on grand spectacle, Egonlab took a deliberate step back for their Spring 2024 collection. Founders Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix opted for a small, intimate gathering at the Parisian institution Anahi, followed by a showroom presentation, instead of a large-scale runway show. This measured decision reflects the current global context and the evolving landscape of the fashion industry.
“With everything going on right now, and new challenges in the fashion economy, we just wanted to get back to our roots,” explained Nompeix during a preview. The duo drew inspiration from punk, a prevalent trend for the season, allowing them to reconnect with the rebellious energy, disenchantment, and disillusionment that first ignited their passion for fashion.
The “Notes from Underground” collection, as it’s aptly named, is a deliberate wink to those in the know. The lookbook features notable figures like Lennon Gallagher, son of Oasis founder Liam, sporting bold flares and a matching checked-and-striped jacket, while British model Tish Weinstock exudes an ethereal presence in porcelain white and blue armor. The designers emphasized their desire to offer something powerful and meaningful for their loyal clientele, a way of expressing gratitude for their continued support.
Egonlab’s signature style of anti-mainstream freedom is evident in the collection’s suiting. Cut-outs at the waist on a strong-shouldered blue and red checked suit with pooling flares, and at the hips on other pieces, with inset boxers preventing overexposure, make a bold statement. Ivy League-style sweatshirts pay homage to Princess Diana, while tanks and trompe-l’oeil shirts adorned with crochet floral brooches add a feminine touch.
The collection brims with standout pieces: a disco-fabulous gold lamé shirt, a sweatshirt featuring Droopy in a distinctly The Cure-inspired mood, and soft-washed denim trousers with a cleverly concealed trompe-l’oeil label and card holder that pay homage to the iconic denim world. These eclectic references will undoubtedly resonate with Egonlab’s dedicated following.
A burgeoning shoe proposition, showcasing silver jeweled loafers, square-toed musketeer boots, cowboy mules, and striped man-flats, hints at the direction Egonlab is headed. This collection is a testament to the brand’s commitment to staying true to its roots while pushing boundaries and forging its own path in the ever-evolving world of fashion.
