In 1972, designer Elsa Peretti purchased a modest cottage in Spain, a purchase that marked the beginning of a remarkable journey. Her fortunes grew exponentially, and now, to celebrate her enduring legacy with Tiffany & Co. – a partnership spanning 50 years – the iconic jewelry house has unveiled three new pieces in her memory: a Bone ring, a Split ring, and a Bone cuff crafted in 18-carat gold and adorned with a teardrop of pavé diamonds. These creations, imbued with organic sensuality, resonate as powerfully today as they did half a century ago, transporting us back to the village of Sant Martí Vell in Catalonia, where Elsa discovered her sanctuary and source of inspiration.
From the moment she first laid eyes on the Casa Pequeña, nestled amidst roses and wisteria under a starlit sky, she was captivated. The cottage, a part of a dilapidated village perched on a hillside, would become both a refuge and a wellspring of creativity. Though her father, Ferdinando, was a man of immense wealth, he was scandalized by his daughter’s rejection of the family’s conventional ways. Left to forge her own path, Elsa taught French, worked as a ski instructor in Gstaad, and eventually earned a degree in interior design, finding employment in Milan with architect Dado Torrigiani. In 1964, she transitioned into the world of fashion modeling, working in Barcelona and immersing herself in a circle of Catalan creatives, including architect Ricardo Bofill and sculptor Xavier Corberó, who challenged the Franco regime and became known as la gauche divine (the divine left).
In 1968, Elsa made her way to New York, where her career took flight. Alongside her modeling work, she experimented with jewelry, collaborating with Spanish silversmith Vincent Abad and crafting a pendant piece on a long leather thong, inspired by a bud vase unearthed in a flea market. This piece, worn by a model in a Giorgio di Sant’Angelo show – the designer whose work epitomized haute hippie – became an instant sensation. Her modeling career proved to be a catalyst for further creative ventures. Upon returning from a Mexico assignment, she transformed an element of a horse’s saddle into a silver belt, and in the early ’70s, she joined the ranks of the Halstonettes, the inner circle of the famed designer Halston. She began designing jewelry for him, creating sensual pieces that reflected the zeitgeist, like a small free-form bottle in lacquer suspended on a beautifully knotted silk thread.
In 1974, Tiffany & Co. came knocking, and Peretti seamlessly incorporated her inspirations into her designs. Sant Martí Vell became a muse, with its snake skeletons inspiring a necklace and scorpions soon following suit. Her creativity seemed boundless, manifesting in forms like hearts, buckles, beans (a lighter, a cuff link, an evening purse), bones, apples, and mesh. The impact of her jewelry was profound; decades later, her work continues to influence designers like Tom Ford. Even the way she wore her belt pieces, crafted in the ’60s and ’70s, transcended their time.
Among the many buildings she preserved in Sant Martí Vell was her laboratory, a treasure trove of sketches, and an installation of her work, displayed alongside her exquisite collection of antique Chinese bowls with delicately colored iced celadon. Over time, Elsa’s home portfolio expanded to include properties in Manhattan (cool and white, with rattan floors), Italy (collaborated on with her close friend Renzo Mongiardino), a house on the Porto Ercole coastline boasting a fireplace shaped like a fantastical man spewing flames, an antiqued trompe l’oeil that seemingly opened to the sky, and a Rome apartment imbued with Mongiardino’s imperial aesthetic. However, Sant Martí Vell remained closest to her heart.
The wealth that her work with Tiffany & Co. brought her (in 2013, the house renewed their exclusive contract, granting her royalties and a $47 million lump sum) amplified her commitment to the village. Now, Sant Martí Vell boasts 18 Elsa houses and three masias, or country homes, all designated heritage sites for the Nando and Elsa Peretti Foundation. Her original house, though modest, has undergone subtle and lavish additions. A discreet pool graces a lower terrace, sculptures dot the gardens, and in the dining area, Elsa designed a raised fireplace. These spaces are now filled with her remarkable art collection. A separate tower houses a bathroom, accessible by a challenging set of stairs that reward the climb with breathtaking views.
As Elsa acquired more houses, her vision for the village grew. A long stone building, once the local tax authority, was transformed by the removal of its floors and the installation of a striking copper fireplace by Lanfranco Bombelli, spanning three floors. A massive millstone rests at the base, serving as a table for entertaining and a reminder of the lively parties once held there. When Elsa purchased a farmhouse on the other side of her vineyards, the old farmer who sold it was heartbroken to leave. Elsa, in a gesture of kindness, allowed him to stay, and they lived together in the house. (Peretti passed away in 2021 at the age of 80.)
A gnarled, blackened staircase, a testament to raw beauty, leads to a bedroom. On the wall, pinned in place, is her Padova cutlery set. The water flask resembles a silver vessel with an opening for the hand. Sinuous silver candlesticks, abstracted from cow bones, hold candles reaching skyward. Elsa’s world is a testament to her powerful and enduring legacy.
