In 1972, Elsa Peretti, a young designer with limited means, purchased a modest cottage in Spain for a few thousand dollars. This humble purchase marked the beginning of a remarkable journey that would see her rise to international fame and leave an indelible mark on the world of design. Her fortunes grew, and her legacy with Tiffany & Co., a partnership that began 50 years ago, continues to inspire. To celebrate her enduring influence, Tiffany & Co. has unveiled three new pieces in her memory: a bone ring, a split cuff ring, and a bone cuff in 18-karat gold set with pavé diamonds. These organic and sensual designs embody Peretti’s timeless aesthetic, as relevant today as they were half a century ago.
They transport us to Sant Martí Vell, a village nestled in Spain’s Catalonia region, where Peretti first discovered her beloved Casa Pequeña. On a starry night, she fell in love with the cottage, cradled by roses and wisteria, amidst a ruinous village halfway up a hill. It became her sanctuary, a source of inspiration and a testament to her unwavering spirit. Peretti’s journey to design stardom was paved with challenges. Her wealthy father, Ferdinando, disapproved of her unconventional pursuits, leaving her to forge her own path. She taught French, worked as a ski instructor in Gstaad, earned a degree in interior design, and honed her skills in Milan, working with the architect Dado Torrigiani.
In 1964, she embarked on a career as a fashion model in Barcelona, where she mingled with a group of Catalan creatives—including the architect Ricardo Bofill and the sculptor Xavier Corberó—who rebelled against Franco’s fascist regime and were known as “the divine left.” Peretti’s move to New York in 1968 marked a turning point. Her career soared, and she began experimenting with jewelry, collaborating with a Spanish silversmith, Vincent Abad. Inspired by a bud vase found in a flea market, she created a pendant piece on a long leather thong, which gained instant recognition after being worn by a model in a Giorgio di Sant’Angelo show.
Her modeling career proved to be a catalyst for her jewelry designs. Returning from an assignment in Mexico, she transformed a horse’s saddle element into a silver belt. In the early 1970s, she became part of the famed designer Halston’s inner circle, the “Halstonettes.” Her designs for Halston captured the spirit of the era, showcasing sensual pieces like a small free-form bottle in lacquer on a knotted silk thread. But it was in 1974 that her destiny intertwined with Tiffany & Co.
Peretti brought her unique inspirations to the iconic jewelry house. Inspired by a snake’s skeleton she saw in Sant Martí Vell, she created a necklace, followed by scorpion designs. Her creativity knew no bounds, taking form as hearts, buckles, beans, bones, apples, and mesh. The impact of her jewelry was profound, influencing designers like Tom Ford decades later.
Her influence extended beyond her designs. Even the way she wore her belts, created in the 1960s and 1970s, transcended the fashion trends of their time. Peretti’s passion for her work extended to her personal life. She meticulously preserved the buildings in Sant Martí Vell, transforming them into a testament to her artistic vision. Her laboratory, filled with sketches and a collection of exquisite pieces—including antique Chinese bowls—became an installation of her work.
Her homes reflected her unique taste and were as eclectic as her designs. She owned properties in Manhattan, Italy, and Rome, each imbued with her personality. However, Sant Martí Vell remained her heart’s home. The wealth she accumulated through her work with Tiffany & Co., including a $47 million lump sum and royalties from a renewed contract in 2013, allowed her to expand her vision for the village.
Now, Sant Martí Vell boasts 18 Elsa houses and three country homes, all heritage sites for the Nando and Elsa Peretti Foundation. Her original house, though modest, has been discreetly enhanced with additions like a hidden pool, sculptures in the gardens, and a raised fireplace. These spaces are now filled with her stunning artwork, a reflection of her enduring artistic spirit.
Peretti’s vision extended beyond her personal spaces. She renovated a long stone building, replacing its floors with a striking copper fireplace by Lanfranco Bombelli spanning three floors. A huge millstone served as a table, a reminder of the parties she once hosted in this transformed space. Even her farmhouse was a testament to her generosity. When she purchased it, she allowed the old farmer who sold it to stay, creating a harmonious living arrangement.
Peretti’s world was one of beauty, creativity, and unwavering passion. Her legacy lives on in her designs, her homes, and the enduring impact she has had on the world of art and design. Though she passed away in 2021 at the age of 80, her spirit continues to inspire, reminding us that true creativity knows no bounds and that a life dedicated to passion leaves an indelible mark on the world.
