As a half-German, I’ve always felt a certain freedom when it comes to nudity that many Brits might find surprising. Whether it’s a gym changing room or a girls’ holiday, I’m perfectly comfortable baring it all. This sense of ‘körper freiheit,’ loosely translated as ‘body freedom,’ served me well on a recent trip to South Tyrol, a stunning region in northern Italy. Known for its German-speaking heritage and strong Austrian influence, South Tyrol is a paradise for spa enthusiasts, offering a unique and liberating wellness experience.
My journey began at ALPIANA, part of the Dolce Vita hotel collection, located about 40 kilometers north of Bolzano, the largest city in the region. Dolce Vita comprises four family-run active and wellness resorts – ALPIANA, Preidlhof, Lindenhof, and Feldhof – nestled in the charming towns of Lana and Naturno. This lesser-known enclave of Italy holds a special charm, with its residents speaking German just like their Austrian neighbors.
Reaching ALPIANA is a breeze. You can fly directly into Verona with Ryanair, offering flights from Stansted for as little as £50 one way in October – a fantastic time to visit when the cooler temperatures are ideal for hiking, biking, and indulging in spa treatments. Alternatively, you can opt for a quicker flight into Bolzano via SkyAlps, with return tickets costing around €219 in October.
ALPIANA itself is a haven of wellness, with its fresh mountain air, lush green surroundings, and eco-friendly design. Starting at around €189 per person, per night, a stay here offers a true escape from the ordinary. Sip on local white wine, savor delicious pasta dishes, and soak in the stunning outdoor pool surrounded by rolling hills and flower-filled meadows – these are the everyday indulgences that await you in this picturesque region.
And if that wasn’t enough, booking with just one hotel in the Dolce Vita collection grants you access to day trips to all five local properties, allowing you to explore extra spa options, enjoy their ‘Dine and Wine around’ concept, and experience top-notch facilities. A must-visit is the awe-inspiring Preidlhof Luxury Dolce Vita Resort, a recipient of countless awards for its exceptional offerings.
Stepping into Preidlhof’s recently built spa tower is like entering a world of wellness bliss. It boasts an impressive array of saunas, pools, and jacuzzis, all designed to promote relaxation and rejuvenation. However, there’s one unique caveat – all spas in this region have a no-swimwear policy. While this might seem daunting to some, I found it liberating and embraced the opportunity to experience one of the best spas I’ve ever encountered.
During my naked journey, I reveled in the healing vibes of the relaxation room, said to be built on a site with the ‘highest energy’ in the area. I sipped on gemstone-infused water, and slipped into the invitingly named ‘wine sauna.’ There’s no room for embarrassment here, as I embraced the local customs by running naked through ice-cold waterfall jets – screaming optional, of course!
Preidlhof offers an extensive menu of treatments, ranging from the conventional to the unusual. I opted for a ‘face modeling’ treatment, similar to the iconic Face Gym workouts. The therapist stretched my skin with her palms, used her thumbs to dig deep into my facial muscles, and even popped her fingers in my mouth to massage from the inside. While this made small talk a tad awkward, the 30-minute ‘facelift’ left me looking ‘snatched’ according to the rest of the group. A 60-minute facial will set you back €150, or €190 for 90 minutes, which includes a buccal massage.
But the biggest draw for South Tyrol’s spas is the cultural phenomenon of ‘aufguss.’ This tradition, deeply rooted in the region, is a source of great pride for the locals. Specially trained ‘sauna masters,’ both male and female, host sessions where they use a combination of ice, towels, and fans to create intense heat, often accompanied by aromatic oils thrown onto the coals to purify the air, or music, singing, and storytelling. It’s not for the faint-hearted, as temperatures can reach scorching levels, making you feel like you’re being roasted in an oven. While a hammam sauna typically reaches a humid 42°C, these ‘event saunas’ can hit 95°C! Despite the nudity, no one seems to notice or even bat an eyelid. The health benefits are numerous, including glowing skin, weight loss, and a stronger immune system.
Beyond the pool and spa, there’s a world of indulgence waiting to be explored. I visited a quirky family-owned vineyard, Kränzelhof, to sample their exquisite organic reds and whites, with whimsical names like Aries, Aurora, and Polaris. Guided by the owner himself, I learned how to appreciate the art of winemaking.
Aside from sipping fine wine, you can explore the whimsical ‘7 Gardens,’ inspired by the oases of southern England. Embrace your inner Kate Bush and frolic through strips of colored fabric blowing in the wind, create sweet music by brushing your hand along suspended cowbells, and get delightfully lost in the maze, which is apparently even a child can solve.
My next stop was the recently opened Cape of Senses, another Dolce Vita property, just two hours away by car or train. Perched atop a hill overlooking the stunning Lake Garda, Cape of Senses offers a glamorous Italian counterpart to the Austrian charm of ALPIANA. Its sexy curved shapes, natural wood furniture adorned with faux fur throws, and expansive glass windows offering breathtaking views create a truly luxurious atmosphere. A crackling fire warms the main bar as a suave waiter serves spicy margaritas, and I gaze across the lake towards the snow-capped mountains beyond.
Cape of Senses boasts another luxurious spa, featuring a sauna overlooking the expansive gardens fringed with olive trees. Practice being a mermaid by swimming in the saltwater pool, or float towards the horizon in the heated infinity pool. As with Alpiana, this is a fully-nude spa area, although wrapping yourself in a towel is considered acceptable.
My spa experience culminated in a heavenly rubdown in a treatment area where you could hear a pin drop, aside from the soothing background music. A 30-minute back, neck, and shoulder massage costs €70 and is well worth your hard-earned pennies. Afterwards, indulge in the spa buffet (who knew this was a thing?) for herbal teas, nuts, and dried fruits.
Don’t just walk, run to the hotel’s Il Tramonto restaurant, best experienced at sunset when the floor-to-ceiling windows bathe the room in a golden hour glow, ideal for snapping selfies or envy-inducing food pics. I feasted on seasonal specialties including tagliatelle with rich bolognese, seared broccoli drizzled with flavorful jus, and pigeon breast South Tyrolean style, topped off with local rose. Let’s not forget an important component of the famed Mediterranean diet – the liquid gold that us mere mortals know as olive oil. This part of Italy is famous for its olive groves, so I took an afternoon trip to Le Prandine. Along with oil, the grove produces a range of beauty products such as soaps, hand creams, and body lotions, many of which you’ll find in your bathroom at Cape of Senses to leave you feeling baby soft. A 30-minute tour of the grove and its idyllic gardens is followed by an extended sampling session.
Just like a wine tasting, I swirled, sniffed, and chugged the olive oil, accompanied by plenty of bread, vegetables, cheeses, and meats for dipping and snacking. The tour plus light lunch costs €50 per adult – a bargain considering the amount of food I consumed.
For me, Italy never disappoints with its beauty, diversity of experiences, and enviable food and drink. But the unique spa culture is something many UK travelers don’t have an inkling about, which is a crying shame in my opinion. If you’re not as bold as me, being in the buff in front of strangers is always optional at Cape of Senses, which is perfect if you want to try something outside of the standard luxury holiday experience. You can cover your modesty with an expertly placed towel, but please, for the love of god, don’t be so British about it.
Ready to experience this Italian-German wellness paradise for yourself? Direct flights operate from London Gatwick to Bolzano on Wednesdays and Saturdays via SkyAlps.
Dolce Vita Hotels pricing: From 171 euros per person per night, approx. £147 (includes 3/4 board – breakfast included, afternoon buffet and dinner included) – depending on the hotel. To book, visit dolcevitahotels.com.