Unveiling on April 26 at the Palais Galliera in Paris, ‘Fashion On The Move #2’ embarks on a captivating journey through the historical evolution of sportswear. This exhibition, the second in the museum’s ‘On The Move’ series, explores the intriguing relationship between movement, athleticism, and clothing.
Culling 300 exquisite pieces from its own collections, the exhibition traces the interplay of social, cultural, and political forces that have molded the design and functionality of sportswear. From the simpler, more flexible male suiting of the 18th century to the emergence of women’s promenade dresses for outdoor activities in the 19th century, the exhibition unveils the gradual evolution of clothing that empowered women with greater freedom of movement.
The exhibition delves into the influence of class and privilege on the development of early sports clothing, highlighting the role of logo-driven branding in contemporary sportswear as a reflection of economic access. It showcases garments designed for a wide range of activities, including bicycling, golfing, swimming, and equestrianism.
A particular focus of the exhibition lies in the changing relationship between the female body and societal standards of beauty, as exemplified by the evolution of swimwear. Curator Marie-Laure Gutton notes that this exploration allowed her to examine the sociological shifts that have marked three centuries of fashion, particularly those tied to women’s emancipation.
The exhibition also highlights the impact of technological advancements on sportswear, showcasing newly developed fabrics that enhanced flexibility and durability. These innovations inspired designers like Coco Chanel, whose eponymous house has generously underwritten the exhibition. As the 20th century progressed, these new fabrics played a pivotal role in bringing sportswear closer to the body, creating a second-skin effect and fostering a growing unwillingness to relinquish the mobility that sportswear offered.
The exhibition illustrates this trajectory through ensembles from renowned designers such as Paul Poiret, Schiaparelli, Pierre Cardin, Claude Montana, and Corinne Cobson. By the 21st century, athleticism had become a dominant force not only in sportswear but in fashion culture as a whole, with examples ranging from Miu Miu to Nike x Sacai.
Curator Gutton is particularly fascinated by the ongoing relationship between fashion and sport, emphasizing how sport has been a catalyst for significant changes in the way we dress and the reciprocal influence between the two spheres. She notes that while everyday clothing was once repurposed for physical exercise and sport in the 18th century, today sportswear and accessories like sneakers have become ubiquitous in our daily lives, completing a full circle in the ever-evolving fashion landscape.
