As the 2020s dawned, many anticipated a revival of the flapper style from the 1920s—an era defined by female empowerment, audacity, and freedom of expression. But global pandemics, international conflicts, and escalating political polarization fueled by social media quickly dampened those hopes. The result was a fashion landscape that gravitated towards a muted ‘quiet luxury’, with neutral tones and sober silhouettes reminiscent of the hit show “Succession.”
However, perhaps not everyone is vying for a seat at the head of the family table, and some believe happiness resides elsewhere. The recent Milan Fashion Week has begun to point towards this new horizon. Despite the industry’s struggles, including budget constraints and a revolving door of designers and executives, there’s a growing excitement for the grand design celebration next year: the centenary of the International Exhibition of Decorative Arts and Industries, the event that officially launched the Art Deco style.
This resurgence isn’t just a nostalgic reference to the past; it’s a cry for freedom, self-expression, and joy in the face of adversity. The silhouette of the 1920s brought a revolutionary change to its time, characterized by straight, elongated shapes that shifted focus away from the waist and bust. Low-waisted dresses, with shorter skirts and loose cuts, provided unprecedented freedom of movement.
Each in their own way, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, and Fendi presented collections that echoed the spirit of the ‘Roaring Twenties’ while infusing contemporary touches. At Gucci, intricate beadwork and fringe detailing even on jackets enlivened Sabato de Sarno’s neo-minimalist style. Dolce & Gabbana, paying homage to Madonna, embraced the 1990s, adorning models with corsets, suspenders, pencil dresses, and conical half-cup bras. However, the lingerie pieces worn as outerwear remain a bold reference to the 1920s’ rejection of restrictive undergarments. And, of course, Domenico and Stefano weren’t shy with the glittering fringe.
Meanwhile, Fendi took the most literal approach, particularly due to its own centenary celebration, also taking place in Rome next year. The brand was born in the 1920s, and Art Deco has since infused its coats, logos, shoes, and silhouettes with its geometric forms. Designer Kim Jones (who announced his departure from the brand earlier this month), however, added his distinctly English touch to the delicate designs through light, transparent fabrics with meticulous crystal embroidery, and the use of Red Wing work boots to break up the tubular elegance.
The return of fringe, a quintessential detail of the era, adds movement and playfulness to the pieces, reflecting a collective desire to break free from the constraints of the past few years. Metallic finishes, reminiscent of the Jazz Age’s love for all things sparkly, demand optimism and celebration in uncertain times.
The original flappers were pioneers of the first wave of feminism, challenging conventions by smoking in public, frequenting bars, dating freely, and fighting for the right to vote and participate in the workforce. This revival could serve as a reminder of fashion’s power to reflect the zeitgeist and shape cultural movements. For a world less quiet, less restrictive, and more provocative.