Francisco Cancino’s infectious joy was palpable as he unveiled his latest collection, ‘Plateros,’ a vibrant celebration of Mexican culture and heritage. The show opened with a striking scarlet red blouse and pants set, immediately setting the tone for a collection bursting with color and energy. Subsequent looks in Mexican pink and orange further emphasized the collection’s festive spirit.
‘Plateros,’ the third in a series of four collections dedicated to Mexico City, follows ‘The First Mexicans’ and ‘Diego,’ and takes its inspiration from the emblematic Maderos street. Cancino described Maderos as a ‘historic street, with all the cultural confluence of our Mexico: guerrillas, revolutions, good times, bad times, happy years, not-so happy years.’ He continued, ‘It is a street that describes, in depth, Mexico City.’
Cancino’s ‘Plateros’ collection was a maximalist triumph, a symphony of references, layers, and textures that brought each piece to life. The tied skirts, dancing with every step, were a testament to his mastery of pattern making, a ‘rhetorical study,’ as he called it.
Despite the maximalist approach, Cancino’s signature style was evident throughout the collection. Clean finishes and a simplification of traditional Mexican clothing were present, most notably in the vests that, at first glance, appeared to nod to Japanese design. However, Cancino explained that they were a reference to the traditional clothing of his country, highlighting the confluence of traditional patterns like the huipil and the quexquémitl. He explained, ‘The confluence of traditional patterns; the huipil, the quexquémitl, and all of that, is part of a hegemonic minimalism that emerged in various parts of the world. It is very similar to the Japanese, but to me, it comes from the Mexican. What happens is that there is a point in the primitive in which they [all] coincide.’
Cancino’s passion for the craft of making clothes was undeniable, a bright spot in a year that has been challenging for many in the industry. The very act of presenting a new collection was a triumph, a testament to the enduring power of creativity and the spirit of fashion. As Cancino continues to explore and celebrate Mexican culture through his designs, his work serves as a powerful reminder of the enduring force of passion in driving artistic expression.