From Hong Kong’s Sun Hing to Bengaluru’s The Lantern: A Culinary Journey Through the Art of Yum Cha

My recent trip to Hong Kong, my second within a year, presented an unexpected challenge: conquering the inherent inertia of vacation mode. I decided to combat this by rising before dawn, at 3 AM, and embarking on a journey to one of Hong Kong’s oldest dim sum houses: Sun Hing in Kennedy Town. Nestled by the sea, it was a scene of pre-dawn serenity, the gentle lapping of waves and the rhythmic clang of trams the only sounds to pierce the quiet. Yet, inside Sun Hing, life vibrated with a vibrant energy. Steaming trolleys laden with dim sum weaved through the room, their contents a feast for the eyes. Generations gathered around tables, their conversations flowing as freely as the endless cups of Chinese tea. It felt like a sacred ritual; a sharing of stories – facilitated by Google Translate to bridge the language gap – and a joyful embrace of life’s absurdities.

This, I discovered, is Yum Cha – literally ‘drink tea’ in Chinese. The experience transcends a simple meal; it’s a cultural immersion where endless variations of dim sum accompany a constant flow of tea, refilled the moment the cups are empty. The feeling lingered long after my departure from Hong Kong.

Remarkably, I was fortunate enough to relive this experience at The Lantern restaurant in the Ritz-Carlton, Bengaluru. Here, too, the tea flowed freely, and the dim sum arrived in an unending stream. The restaurant’s design, inspired by lanterns, is exquisitely detailed; from the delicate napkins to the warm glow of the red lamps illuminating each table. The spacious corner tables are perfect for intimate gatherings, ideal for savouring the art of Yum Cha.

For me, the highlight was undoubtedly the chicken shumai—delicate parcels of pure deliciousness. Simple yet deeply satisfying, they’re, in my opinion, the pinnacle of dim sum perfection. I indulged without reservation or regret. The Tianjin cabbage dumplings, with their tender Napa cabbage filling, were another revelation. And the selection of Jasmine, Oolong, and Pu’er teas provided the perfect complement, cleansing the palate between each bite.

The image of people of all ages and backgrounds gathered around steaming cups of tea and plates of snacks resonated deeply with my Indian heritage. It’s a scene replicated countless times in India – at chai stalls, on porches, shared with grandmothers. Bollywood has captured this essence beautifully, from the Raichand family’s morning and evening tea rituals in *Kabhi Khushi Kabhie Gham* to the awkward, burgeoning romance over chai in *Dil Se*. Even Wong Kar-Wai’s *In the Mood for Love* showcases the intimate connections forged in the dimly lit tea houses of Hong Kong.

This raises a compelling question: Is tea truly the great connector? Does the simple act of sipping this universally accessible beverage lower our guard and encourage genuine conversation? The Chinese pair their tea with dim sum; we Indians often enjoy pakoras and nan khatais. Yet, the common thread is connection—the permission to relax and connect in a world that rarely allows for such leisurely moments. At The Lantern, I witnessed the beautiful convergence of these two worlds—the familial warmth of Indian gatherings and the serene quietude of the Chinese Yum Cha tradition, both rooted in shared experiences and the celebration of life’s simple pleasures.

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