After a two-year absence, Gauntlett Cheng made a triumphant return to New York Fashion Week, marking their 10th anniversary with a collection that was both celebratory and a testament to their enduring design vision. The brand, founded by Jenny Cheng and Esther Gauntlett, had intentionally scaled back their runway presence in 2020, choosing to show only once a year. However, the extended break, fueled by a need for “space,” allowed the designers to focus on their creative vision and return with a collection that was their strongest yet.
“We wanted to celebrate our 10 years as a New York brand but also to celebrate each other,” shared Cheng a week after their show, reflecting on the significance of this milestone. “It’s an important marker of time and a chance to reflect.” This sentiment resonated throughout the Spring 2025 collection, which showcased a renewed focus on intricate textile manipulation and playful design elements.
The opening look, a halter top and matching skirt crafted from Japanese mohair and metallic yarn, set the tone for the collection’s exploration of negative space. The seemingly separate pieces were seamlessly joined by a mesh bodice, creating an illusion of depth and dimension. This interplay of space and form continued throughout the collection, appearing in a pencil skirt where mesh panels strategically framed curved panels, highlighting the contours of the body.
Gauntlett Cheng also experimented with fabric manipulation, showcasing a series of garments made from white lace turned inside out and overprinted with a tweed pattern. This unexpected twist juxtaposed the delicate lace with a more structured texture, adding a sense of complexity to the designs. The collection also featured a captivating bias-cut slip dress adorned with a hand-beaded asymmetrical panel that could be worn in various configurations, allowing for individual expression and versatility.
A testament to their commitment to craftsmanship, Gauntlett Cheng meticulously created all the samples in-house, ensuring every detail was touched by their hands. This dedication allowed them to experiment with textures, colors, and techniques, pushing the boundaries of their creative process. The designers also collaborated with David Moses, a former partner who joined them at the inception of the brand as Moses Gauntlett Cheng.
Their collaboration with Moses resulted in several pieces embellished with a dazzling array of sequins, golden stars, rhinestones, and other salvaged treasures sourced from the Dance Theater of Harlem a decade ago. “When we were thinking about how we wanted to work with David again, the idea of ‘making together’ was really important,” Gauntlett explained. “We wanted to sit down, the three of us, our hands all on something.” This collaborative spirit infused the collection with a sense of shared purpose and creative synergy.
Gauntlett Cheng also showcased their signature ruched elastic draped asymmetric dresses and tops, which were modernized and refined. These pieces, characterized by their fluid lines and draping, exemplified the designers’ ability to seamlessly blend femininity and modernity. “This is the most complicated pattern I’ve ever done in my life!” exclaimed Gauntlett, describing a particularly intricate piece. “It’s one big spiral that wraps around the body, and all these lines are [angled] at 72 degrees exactly, and they continuously spiral around the body.” This dedication to intricate detail and precise construction underscored the meticulous craftsmanship that defines their work.
With their Spring 2025 collection, Gauntlett Cheng solidified their place as a leading force in contemporary fashion. Their celebration of collaboration, craftsmanship, and textile innovation delivered a collection that was both visually stunning and conceptually compelling, showcasing their unwavering commitment to pushing boundaries and creating enduring designs.
