London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 was a whirlwind of creativity, particularly in the beauty arena. A powerful trend that emerged was the embrace of genderless beauty, a concept that celebrated fluidity and inclusivity. Clean, natural, and androgynous looks were seen across numerous brands, reflecting a shift towards a more universally appealing aesthetic.
One of the most striking examples was the work of lead makeup artist Lindsay Alexander for JW Anderson. She emphasized an “elegant and handsome” beauty, crafting a simple yet meticulously crafted look with an emphasis on bold brows. Alexander achieved this by using Merit’s Brow 1990 gel pencil to define the brow’s density, followed by Brow 1980 volumizing pomade to add dimension, culminating in a stoic and masculine impression. This was balanced by a touch of femininity with a soft pale pink lip.
Erdem took a different approach, focusing on a natural and radiant beauty achieved through 111SKIN’s Cryo Therapy treatment. This process involved exposing the models’ faces to -40 degree Celsius wind for 5-7 minutes, followed by lymphatic drainage on the neck to revitalize the face, reduce puffiness, and define the contours. A subsequent face mask amplified this effect, resulting in an immediate and naturally luminous glow.
Beyond the pursuit of a natural look, there were also mystical and dramatic elements that graced the runway. Veils, serving as a captivating hair accessory, made an appearance at Richard Quinn and ROKSANDA shows. The latter drew inspiration from the work of Agnes Deans, an artist who, over four decades ago, cultivated wheat fields in Manhattan. Ana Cofone, the hairstylist, explained, “She was someone who sought to express the concepts of ‘rebellion’ and ‘nature’ through silhouettes and patterns. We wanted to echo this idea in the hair, creating an illusion of a wheat field using contrasting textures of sleek and dry hair, then adding the veils.”
A playful and vibrant beauty spirit infused the CHOPOVA LOWENA show. Lauren Reynolds created eye-catching looks, featuring neon colors and star-shaped embellishments on the eyelids, along with two-tone lips. The most noteworthy of these was a statement look featuring colorful rhinestones encircling the eyes, sure to turn heads. This playful and party-ready style is one to bookmark.
Bee Sweet, the beauty mastermind behind Tolu Coker, presented bold graphic black and white eyeliner looks. These were paired with voluminous 60s and 70s inspired wigs crafted by Efi Davies, resulting in a powerful aesthetic.
The London Fashion Week opening show by Harris Reed focused on doll-like makeup with an emphasis on striking eyelashes. The key here was to achieve a captivating, yet natural, look, achieved through carefully clustered lashes and extensions. The eyeshadow palette was comprised of effortless blue shades from Charlotte Tilbury’s upcoming release and the golden bronze from their bestselling “Queen of Glow Luxury” palette.
Meanwhile, MAINS showcased a more avant-garde approach, inspired by anime characters. Chao Li Xiu created impactful eye looks with dramatically separated lashes, providing a striking visual contrast. The accompanying lip makeup was a gothic blend of Bobbi Brown pencil and gloss.
When it came to nails, subtle shimmer played a starring role at ROKSANDA. Georgia Rae, the nail artist, created simple yet sophisticated micro-French tips, adorned with Bio Sculpture polish for a delicate shine. “ROKSANDA’s collections always have a dark and delicate side to them, so we were inspired by the lip makeup to go for a dark navy micro-French. We added a touch of shimmer to lighten up the look,” she explained. “The other design was a rich burgundy, which worked beautifully on the darker skin tones of the models and made them look even more alluring.”
Simone Rocha took the shimmering trend to a whole new level with her nail designs, crafted by session manicurist Ama Quashi. Models walked the runway with elegant tassels of jewel-like beads adorning their fingertips, swaying gracefully with every step. These designs were a captivating combination of subtle shimmer and bold embellishments, showcasing the enduring power of nail art to elevate a look to new heights.
London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 proved that beauty is indeed in the eye of the beholder. Whether it’s the understated elegance of a genderless look, the mystical allure of a veil, or the playful vibrancy of neon colors, the runway showcased an eclectic mix of trends, offering inspiration for all.
