Glenn Martens, the innovative designer known for his experimental silhouettes, has left his position as creative director of Y/Project after eleven years. His departure marks the end of an era for the brand, known for its playful and avant-garde designs that have garnered widespread acclaim.
Martens, a graduate of the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, began his career at Jean Paul Gaultier as a junior designer for women’s pre-collections. His distinctive aesthetic caught the eye of Yohan Serfaty, founder of Y/Project, and in 2010, Martens joined the label as a first assistant. Three years later, he assumed the role of creative director, overseeing the evolution of the brand from its initial focus on menswear to its current inclusive and experimental approach.
Under Martens’ leadership, Y/Project became known for its unique blend of streetwear and humor. As he told Vogue in 2022, “We need to learn to see things differently, to look deeply. I am Belgian. For me, the concept always comes before the product.”
His avant-garde and conceptual approach, marked by oversized volumes, deconstructed coats, distressed tees, trompe l’oeil effects, and innovative layering techniques, quickly gained recognition. Martens earned the prestigious LVMH Prize in 2017, solidifying his position as a leading force in contemporary fashion.
In 2020, Martens was appointed creative director of Diesel, a brand he revitalized with his signature playful and sexy aesthetic. “For me, the idea is to be sexy, optimistic, active and to focus on denim. But there is a fun factor, with lots of possible directions,” he shared upon unveiling his first collection for the brand.
Martens’ designs quickly gained popularity among celebrities and fashion influencers, including Dua Lipa, Rosalía, and Julia Fox. He also notably staged the Jean Paul Gaultier spring-summer 2022 haute couture show, paying homage to the legendary designer with pieces inspired by his iconic creations.
While the successor to Martens’ position at Y/Project remains unannounced, his departure marks a significant moment for the brand. The future of Y/Project is uncertain, but one thing remains clear: Glenn Martens’ legacy as a creative visionary will continue to influence the fashion landscape for years to come.
