As the final notes of Marina Fiorito’s 1986 hit “Non Voglio Mica La Luna” echoed through the Milan Triennale Design Museum, the models emerged in a synchronized wave, and the audience, caught up in the rhythm, began to sing along. It was a joyous culmination of Sabato De Sarno’s first year at the helm of Gucci, a year that wasn’t without its challenges. But his efforts to bring a fresh, optimistic energy to the brand were undeniably evident in the captivating 2025 Spring/Summer collection.
De Sarno began by carefully crafting the show’s setting. He chose the same venue as the men’s show in June, transforming the circular space into a series of interconnected areas. The color palette evolved from pure white, gradually transitioning to yellow, orange, and finally the brand’s signature red, “Rosso Ancora”, creating a visually stunning representation of a fading sunset. In a preview held days before the show, De Sarno spoke with affection about his recent vacation to the island of Formentera with his husband and parents in August, and the collection’s vibrant energy reflected that island summer feeling.
His muse for the collection? The iconic Jackie Kennedy Onassis, a longtime Gucci client and enduring style icon who has inspired countless designers over the years. “When I was researching the archives, I found a document that described her style as ‘casual chic,’ and that phrase stayed with me throughout the design process,” De Sarno explained. The Kennedy family has experienced a resurgence in popularity, with Ryan Murphy’s recent announcement of a new drama series focusing on John F. Kennedy Jr. and Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy. Serendipitously, Gucci has chosen a member of the same family as its muse.
De Sarno’s signature touch was visible from the very first look, a wool bomber jacket paired with high-waisted pants and sneakers. Though it might not be immediately obvious that Jackie Kennedy was the inspiration, the collection gradually unveiled its subtle nods to the former First Lady’s signature style. Archival prints were reimagined in head scarves and oversized sunglasses, evoking the iconic vacation style she embodied in Capri. Delicate floral patterns in fluorescent green woven into raffia coats, separates adorned with prints inspired by Queen Elizabeth II wearing Gucci, and wide-brimmed hats all spoke to Jackie’s signature 1960s travel style. The collection also featured dazzling, sequin-embellished sleeveless dresses that would be a sensation on any red carpet, and a dark reinterpretation of the iconic white jersey dress from Tom Ford’s 1996-97 Fall/Winter collection.
De Sarno’s addition of gold bamboo-shaped arm bands and chokers to the jersey dress served as a nod to the “Bamboo” bag, which is a key focus for Gucci this season. The show included several examples of vintage “Bamboo” bags customized by Japanese artists, and many models carried bucket-shaped shoulder bags adorned with the signature “Horsebit.” The iconic “Horsebit” also made a glamorous appearance as a detail on updated, flat-heeled loafers.
The collection reached its crescendo with the final five looks, evoking the spirit of modern jet setters. The models, clad in tank tops, boyish denim, and oversized coats that trailed on the floor, perfectly embodied a captivating casualness that De Sarno had been striving to achieve. This was his most significant breakthrough, a bold statement about his vision for the brand.
The future is always uncertain, but as the guests sang and danced along to Fiorito’s music, it was clear that De Sarno’s future is bright, filled with promise and anticipation for the next chapter of Gucci’s success.
