Gucci’s New Era: Sabato De Sarno’s Vision of Tailoring and Heritage

For Sabato De Sarno, tailoring and heritage are not just passions, they’re obsessions in the most positive sense of the word, even before he joined Gucci. His vision is evident from the very first look, a masterful reinterpretation of the timeless jean. De Sarno presents denim in a contemporary light, with innovative design elements like front seams, double-color denim, and the ever-popular baggy fit.

He then unveils a sharp, masculine power suit, a nod to the 1960s, featuring tailored black trousers with a subtle twist: a cropped cut that reveals the shoes, in this case, sporty sneakers. This attention to detail is a hallmark of De Sarno’s approach, elevating the ordinary to the extraordinary through impeccably constructed garments that are both sophisticated and wearable.

This meticulousness extends to every piece in the collection: asymmetrically cut jersey dresses, long gowns with side slits, pannier mini-skirts, structured jackets, and versatile shorts, all showcasing impeccable tailoring and understated elegance.

Gabardinas and coats stand out as key pieces, exuding a sophisticated yet urban vibe when paired with simple tank tops and jeans. De Sarno embraces the concept of “casual grandeur,” where minimalism reigns supreme, exemplified by the collection’s palette of grays and whites accented by touches of apple green, orange, and the iconic Ancora red.

Gucci’s iconic Bamboo bag remains central, but with new details and craftsmanship, its influence extends to jewelry, including the Bamboo Torques, which wrap around the body or serve as closures for 1990s-inspired dresses. The collection also features a collaboration with Japanese artists, who have reinterpreted the legendary Bamboo 1947 bag to celebrate its 60th anniversary.

Other notable details include the horsebit, featured in footwear from loafers to 1970s-inspired flat boots, and the Gucci Flora scarf, revisited from the archives and redesigned by illustrator Vittorio Accornero de Testa. De Sarno’s debut collection is a testament to his keen understanding of Gucci’s legacy, a celebration of heritage and craftsmanship reimagined for a contemporary audience.

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